












'^^o^ 



4 o 




■bV 
















'^0 



< o 



4 o ^ {■ 



> Q:> 







> 



:^' 






4 O 



^'-'TH^-V^ ^'^?ff<\o^^' X'^^ 













. , 6:- 



EXTRACTS 



FROM THE 



't-^t H 



JOURNAL 



OF 



MARSHAL SOULT, 

ADDREssmm)BmMSnsi 

BELEASED. 

HOW OBTAINED, 

AND 

BY WHOM TRANSLATED S^^ ^^ 
IS JYOT d SUBJECT OF EJ^qUIRY, 

"These are not the forgeries of jealousy." 




NEWBURY PORT: 
PUBLISHED BY WILLIAM E. ALLEN 8c CO. 

i8ir. 









^^'\ 

.^^^y 




district of Massachusetts, to zvU : 
(lTso "R^ ^"^ REMEMBERED, that on the fii'st day of January, 
^^^w JD A. D. 1817. and in the fortysecoiidyear of the Independence 
of the United States of America, WM. B. ALLEN & Company, of the 
said district, have deposited in this office the title of a Book, the tight 
whereof they claim as proprietors in the words following, to wit : 

*• Extracts from the Journal of Marshal Soult. addressed to a Friend ; 
how obtained, and by whom translated is not a subject of enquiry. 
" These are cot the forgeries of jealousy," 

In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States entitled. 

An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of" 
Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, 
during the time therein mentioned; and also to an Act entitled " An 
Act supplementary to an Act. entitled an Act for the encouragement of 
learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts and books, to the au- 
thors and pviiprietovs of such copies during the time therein meriioned ; 
and txtendui;^ the benefits thereof to the arts cf designing, engiavij'g 
and Etching Histpr^ea!, and other prints."' 

WILLIAMS. SHAW, {"'^J^^^! 



INTRODUCTION 



Dear Friend 



BEFORE my landing on these friend- 
ly sliores; I had read the histories of A- 
merica with the deepest interest, and at- 
tention ; from the bald chronicles, and 
quaint descriptions of their early histori- 
ans, the splendid pages of Ramsay, — the 
comprehensive, full, accurate and solid 
work of Marshall, to the delightful trea- 
tise of Botta, who enamoured with A- 
merican liberty, has adorned the minute, 
and faithful record of American history 
with the fascinations and graces of the 
Italian muse. 

When it became inconvenient for me to 
stay in France, I turned my eyes to this 
countrv, as a refuge from the storms of 



life^ as an asylum, not of solitude and irk- 
someness, but of civilization, activity and 
enjoyment ; with this disposition, I found 
myself in the capital of New-England, 
and instead of hastening to meet my 
friends in more southern cities, I deter- 
mined to stay here, and in the vicinity, for 
a few months, to judge if my impressions 
were erroneous or well founded. Un- 
known, and passing for a merchant, I 
have leisurely moved about in a small cir- 
cle ia Massachusetts, and New- Hamp- 
shire, made enquiries relating to public 
characters, and observations upon the man- 
ners, customs, opinions, prejudices and 
laws of these people ; and noted them in 
my journal, in the spirit of faithfulness, 
and truth. If I liad possessed the malig- 
nity of the serpent who stung the bosom 
that awaked him to life by its warmth, I 
could have abused and vilified this people ; 
quarrelled with every Maitre D'Hote, call- 
ed the inhabitants Hottentots, and passed 
on ; this has been the course of many of 



their visitors who when here were treated 
with politeness and Tespect. Without so 
much malignity, I could have made a dif- 
ferent picture from what I have attempted 
to draw ; by grouping all the disagreeable 
subjects which came under my inspection, 
and keeping a profound silence on what 
was pleasant or excellent. I could have 
described with truth and accuracy many 
inane heads, purse-proud fools, bigoted 
fanatics, cunning sycophants, and sober 
knaves, in office, and out of office, in the 
city, and in the country. I could in jus- 
tice have stated that every gale was taint- 
ed with slander, that freedom of speech 
had become absolute licentiousness ; but 
this picture, exhibited alone, would have 
been as unjust a representation of the whole 
as to paint the darkest shades of the rain- 
bow for all its beautiful and magnificent 
colors. 

This country has suffered much from ig- 
norant, or prejudiced travellers ; more es- 
pecially from Englishmen, who think it 
i * 



6 

will please their government to shew this 
growing Empire in an unfavorable point 
of view. England has often been taught. 
by these brave people, lessons of valof 
which will not soon be forgotten ; and in 
some future day,l trust, she will reap the 
full reward of such wilful blindness, and 
envious misrepresentations. Other trav- 
ellers (and with pain I must acknowledge 
some Frenchmen among the number,) 
from motives of personal vanity, have at- 
tempted to make falsehood and scurrility 
pass for shrewd observations, and pointed 
remarks : They have miscalculated on 
such exertions for fame, for the world soon 
discovers the difference between the low 
abuse of a whole people, and the keen 
and polished satire levelled by indignant 
genius against folly and wickedness. 

If, by any accident, this journal should 
meet any other eyes but your own, the few^ 
hints I have made, and the faint sketches 
I have drawn, if they give but little pleas- 
\ire, or information, will surely never give 
any offence. 



The Americans are called a vaiii and 
boastful people ; it may be so ; but they 
liave the singular method of exhibiting 
this trait of character by concealing the 
merits of individuals. If you hear a lear- 
ned divine, an able advocate, or an elo- 
quent orator, in the pulpit, bar, or deliber- 
ative assembly; or a wise judge deliver 
a charge from the bench, on enquiring in 
what publication his likeness and memoirs 
may be found, — they tell you that there is 
not one line, or impression extant to give 
you his birth, his education, his progress 
in life, or his form or features : In one 
point you may procure satisfactory infor- 
mation from any person, they can all tell 
you his pecuniary circumstances. How 
different from England ; there, notonly the 
noble and distinguished, but the excen- 
trie, antl often the very vulgar are before 
the public by means of the press. At the 
death of a great man, here, some friend 
acts the panegyrist, and probably lias to 
search the family bible to know when his 
subject was born; the catalogue, to find 



' 8 

when he left the university ; and collectins; 
a few meagre anecdotes makes up at the 
moment^ all that is ever said of some 
men whose virtues, and whose talents de- 
serve an imperishable record from the 
hands of genius. Of late there has been 
some honorable exceptions to these obser- 
vations ; for the fame of the country, and 
in justice to themselves^ may these excep- 
tions increase. 

The history of Massachusetts is now 
sufficiently crowded, with incident and fil- 
led with character, to be divided into coun- 
ty histories ; for there are many precious 
relicts to make up such works, on the sur- 
face, or just buried, which are now fast 
mouldering, and diminishing, and which 
if not soon collected will be lost forever. 
Many of the counties would furnish mat- 
ter for a large volume of valuable and in- 
teresting history which would find a ready 
alrculation ; for the humblest, love their 
native land, and are proud of its memori^ 
Ills of honor. 



I AM now at Boston^ the place wlucii 
has so often beeu called the cradle of 
American liberty. The town is not large 
in extent^ and stands on ground which for- 
merly^ in every great storm, was an isl- 
and, and is now so surrounded by the 
sea, and arras of the sea, that the isthmus 
at any time is but a few rods wide. The 
population of this town is not far from 
forty thousand, and its immediate envi- 
rcns may be rated at ten thousand more. 
Many of the streets are w ide and clean, 
but some few are narrow and dirty. The 
dwelling houses are generally large and 
couvenient, and certainly the people are 
more comfortably, genteely, and splendid- 
ly lodged than any other forty thousand 
taken indiscriminately in the world. The 
stores, ware-houses, and wharves, are of 
the first order, and are satisfactory evi- 
dences of great commercial concerns. Im- 
mense improvements have been made, and 



10 

are still making under the direction of a 
celebrated projector, who has already laid 
streets, built wharves, and erected stores, 
and dwelling houses almost as suddenly 
as the genii of Aladdin's lamp. 

The public buildings are many of them 
on a scale of magnitude fand beauty not 
surpassed in the magnificent cities of Eu- 
rope. The exchange building, as it is 
called, is a vast pile with a fine central 
area lighted from an immense dome. This 
area is surrounded by rooms of all kinds, 
and for all uses, shops, halls, offices, 
reading-rooms, and almost every place for 
business, tomfort, or pleasure. The new 
court-house is a large stone building, and 
was much wanted for the numerous courts 
held here. The state-house is a huge 
edifice, v/ith chambers for the differ- 
ent branches of their numerous Le- 
gislature, and also a council chamber 
for the chief Magistrate, with suitable 
anti-chambers, and offices for the secre- 
tary of the commonwealib. adjutant, and 



quarter- master- generals. This is proba- 
bly the largest^ and most convenient build- 
ing of the kind in the United States. 

Fanuiel-Hall is the place dearest to a 
Bostonian^s heart. It is a fine large room 
over the old market-house. This is the 
place where the people of the town of 
Soston meet for all purposes of elections^ 
frequently for what is called in this coun- 
try a caucus ; a meeting not contemplated e ^ 
in the laws of the town, or state^ and,'^ q^ i 
merely a self-created assembly of citizensli:^ I ^ I ?, 
legal voters, of a party^ called togetlier b^^g » ^ I £L 



^ 






the arrangement of a few, to consult on theV^^ *^ 
choice of representatives, chief magistrate, \^a 
and other state and town officers, previous 
to elections. They assemble, and the 
meeting is called to order by some elderly 
gentleman present, and a moderator and 
secretary are chosen, and this simple or- 
ganization is all that is required. Some 
orator then rises, and addresses his fellow 
citizens on the occasion they were called 
togetber, gives a full scope to his imagin- 



12 

atioDj breathes the vehement spirit of po- 
litical zeal^ calls upon them to be united 
and active, and promises them success. 
Orator follows orator, and each pours 
forth satire and praise, threatens and per- 
suades, and tries to strike every chord 
which vibrates in a freeman's bosom ; and 
then some one offers a set of resolutions 
previously prepared, full of the high sense 
of their rights, and solemn determinations. 
From this description, do not suppose that 
this is a rabble rout : no, the caucus is 
formed of all ranks and degrees of men, 
who are the stability of government and 
the support of the laws. The eloquence 
which is heard in their caucuses is supe- 
rior to that heard in any other place in 
this country. The public are as fastidious 
as Avere the people at Athens, and nothing 
but the highest exertions of their best 
speakers will suit them on such an occa- 
sion. These meetings are conducted with 
decency and order ; but in France such a 
collection would end in tumult and frenzy. 



13 

Boston is called, by many travellers, 
London in miniature, and it may in some 
particulars suggest a resemblance. In 
Boston there is more equality of rank, 
more diffusive courtesey, and more weight 
of character, in the middling classes of the 
people, than in any other city I know. 
The inhabitants of Boston speaking gen- 
erally, are generous, and enlightened, with 
no small share of self-complacency ; but 
they have a right to this feeling, for here 
was opened the first act of the drama of the 
American revolution, and it went off with 
so much spirit, and effect that the British 
actors shifted the scene to other parts of 
the country during the remainder of the 
conflict. Massachusetts made a distin- 
guished figure on the stage of action until 
the curtain droped. She had formed her 
martial character in the wars with us on. 
their frontiers. She showed the scars of 
the wounds received at Ticonderoga, the 
laurels she won at Cape Breton, and her 
share in the fame of Wolfe, as a proof of 



her right to lead the van in the revolution ; 
and as an earnest of her ability, and forti- 
tude in the struggle for Independence ; 
and in the darkest hour of that period she 
was never broken down by despair, or 
disgraced by imbecility. She suffered 
much from the depreciation of the paper 
currency, which had kept alive the conti- 
nental armies for several years ; and ma- 
ny of the most valuable and firm citizens 
were ruined ; but the patriotism of Massa- 
chusetts was not lost. The industry and 
enterprize of the people soon began to give 
animation to business, and a short period 
of prosperity obliterated in a great degree, 
the memory, and sense of their misfortunes. 
These commercial people were among the 
first to call for a navy for the protection of 
their property, and for national honor ; 
and offered to advance money to govern- 
ment to bring a navy into immediate exist- 
ence. In fact their two most noted frig- 
ates, the Constitution and Essex, were 
built in this State 5 the former at Boston, 
the latter at Salem. 



la 

Public institutions are rapidly growing 
up in this town ; and the Legislature will 
probably, after the State is relieved from 
the burthens of the last war, be attentive 
to their prosperity, and in truth, they are 
now liberal as far as their present means 
will admit. 

There is aLinnean society founded here 
which is only in a nascent state at present^ 
but promises to be extensive in a short 
time, for it is now under the patronage of 
several zealous, and scientific young men, 
who have it in their power to devote con- 
siderable time, and attention to its pros- 
perity. 

The Atheneum here is on a large scale, 
the library now contains twenty thousand 
volumes, and is supported by the curious, 
the literary and wealthy. It is placed under 
the superintendence of a Mr. S*^*, who 
possesses the true spirit of virtu. The in- 
stitution is much indebted to his devoted, 
and persevering disposition in the cause ; 
for he fastens on every thing new, rare and 



16 

«.ntiqne;, with an earnestness which baffies 
all denial, and secures his object without 
fail. 

The literary people here read much^ 
Jynt write but little. What is prepared 
for the news-papers, and the sermons of 
the clergy, make up the most of their 
writings ; and the probable reason for this 
is, that a large portion of the literati are 
affluent, or in some profession which will 
not admit of their devoting sufflcient time 
to composition to do justice to their tal- 
ents, or acquirements. Several religions, 
and literary journals, and miscellanies 
printed here are ably conducted, and only 
want proper public support to be ranked 
among prime works of this sort. The 
poet's place in these publications, as Avell 
as the corner of every news-paper, is re- 
spectably filled ; but these people under- 
value their own poetical powers ; for they 
Lave so long depended on England for 
delight and instruction, in this department 
of literature, that they most unreasonably 



17 

depreciate their own poetical merits. The 
poet, Mr. PainE; lately dead, left some 
fine specimens of an exalted fancy ; and 
only wanted more chastity of taste, more 
studious habits, and longer life, to have 
been placed high in the first class of En- 
glish poets. I have seen a poem or ode 
on Time^ and one on Oceayi, said to have 
been written by a retired young lady, of 
great taste, genius, and acquirements^ 
which I do not hesitate to pronounce the 
first poetical productions I have met with in 
this country. These pieces Would certain- 
ly be distinguished in any collection, for 
loftiness of sentiment, beauty of imagery^ 
and sweetness, and harmony of numbers. 
I did not see her for she was in the weeds 
of domestic affliction, for the loss of some 
relation, and I never intrude upon the sa- 
credness of grief; but those who knew 
her spoke of her kind disposition, and her 
wonderful colloquial powers, and I was- 
inclined to believe that had I been so for- 
tunate as to have seen her I should have 



18 

found ^^her eloquence was sweeter than 
' her song.^^ 

Although this place has not given very 
liberal patronage to artists^ yet several na- 
tive geniuses of eminence are found here, 
but I had not leisure to examine works of 
taste if such had existed in profusion. Col. 
Sargent, a gentleman of talents, (belonging 
to a family of wealth and intellectj which 
lias produced both poets and painters) not 
long since exhibited an historical picture 
which excited no small share of attention : 
The landing of the Pilgrims, a subject full 
of interest to all, but more particularly 
gratifying to a native of this country. It 
was an ample field for the finest touches 
of the pencil. The wildness of nature, 
from the immovable rocks against which 
the wintry waves were dashing, through 
every grade of her works up to savage 
man ; the dreary coast, the inclement 
sky of November ; the fortitude, religious 
composure, the insuperable resolution dis- 



19 

played in the eoiinteiiaiices of the adven- 
turers, are all marks of the Iniad of a mas- 
ter. It is rumored that a still more su- 
blime subject, the triumphant entrance of 
Jesus into Jerusalem now concentrates his 
labors, and will soon meet the public eye. 
Stewart, an American, a native of Rhode 
Island, who many years since was ranked 
in England, in the first class of painters, 
resides in this vicinity, and confines his 
attention principally to portrait painting. 
In this line he fears no rival, and acknow- 
ledges no competitor. The houses of the 
rich are ornamented by the productions of 
his pencil. Stewart's offence is, (but I will 
not undertake to ^x an adequate punish- 
ment to his crime) a more than Promethean 
impiety, in giving to some of his likeness- 
es thought, feeling, taste, and soul, when 
the allwise Creator had denied these gifts 
to the originals. He is old, but still glows 
with the pride and animation of superior- 
ity ; for he remembers the days when Rey- 
nolds praised his meritS; and told him pes- 



20 

severance would ensure wealth and fame 5 
when FoXf and iiurke, loved and honored 
him, and secured his immortality by the 
breath of their praise ; for what they ad- 
mired and patronized, detraction could not 
reach, envy injure, nor time destroy. 

I found in this town a Catholic Bishop, 
a Frenchman, who is doing much good to 
a small flock composed of Irish, French, 
and Spanish. These foreigners of differ- 
ent nations looked up to him as a friend 
and father, for he had the comforts and 
blessings of philosophy and religion to 
pour upon their heads. He soothed their 
anguish, relieved their wants, and taught 
them that the path of virtue was the sure 
road to immortal life ; and by his influ- 
ence they became good citizens and were 
respectable in a strange land. This 
priest had been an exile from his coun- 
try for more than twenty years, and all 
the sorrows, and sufferings of his order, 
and of iiis countrymen crowded upon, and 
depressed his soul 5 but he felt all its an- 



2i 

guisli in silence ; no complaints were utter- 
ed ; no execrations pronounced ; for all re- 
sentments were extinguished in his breast ; 
and his constant prayer at the altar is for 
the forgiveness of his enemies, and the 
prosperity of his country. I heard this 
liumble follower of the meek and lowly 
Jesus attack the forgetful and the proud, 
and encourage the unhappy and poor in 
spirit, until I ardently desired to press 
him to my breast and make him my con- 
fessor ; but my pride and unsubdued feel- 
ings rose to forbid it ; for I feared he 
would have turned away from the soldier 
whose sword had so often been stained by 
the blood of nations ; therefore, I was ob- 
stinately silent, and was not made known 
to this pious man. The Holy Catholic 
Church is increasing in numbers and res- 
pectability in this land of toleration ; and 
the day is not far distant when the reli- 
gion by which Fenelon and St. Louis liv- 
ed and diedj will increase and flourish in 
this country. How little do protestants 



2% 

know of this religion of the senses^ of the 
affections and the heart ; let them adhere 
to their cold reasoning, while we, pros- 
trate, feel, believe, and adore. I pro- 
fess to worship the genius of toleration ; 
and hope and trust I am able to speak of 
all religions and their professors without 
prejudice. The clergy here are men of 
cultivated minds, with a just sense of their 
importance in society ; they, with some 
few exceptions, profess the liberal doc- 
trines of the day, and preach many finish- 
ed discourses on the nature and duties of 
man. They mingle much in society, 
which is beneficial to the people and them- 
selves. At the festive board they never 
destroy proper freedom and pleasantry 
by any stiffness or formality 5 and their 
host, and his guests, have too much good 
manners to offend them, and the dignity 
of their cloth, by free remarks or indeli- 
cate wit, which too often disgraces the 
table of the wise, from the force of cus- 
tom and the liberty of the glass. The 



S3 

Boston clergy^ as a body, are charged 
with attempting to destroy the orthodoxy 
of the country. This is denied ; and, on 
the whole, I suspect the extent of the on- 
ly charge made out against them, is frank- 
ness in avowi ng their own belief. There 
is one among them, however, a great 
champion for modern reform ; but he has 
stepped out of the ranks, and like Her- 
cules, wages war alone, unrestrained by 
command, and unincumbered by numbers. 
His sentiments, as far as I am able to 
learn, are those of a humanitarian. He 
considers the Messiah, in character like 
Moses and Elijah, only that he came on 
a higher mission, and taught a more dis- 
tinct and better doctrine : — That he came 
to fulfil, not to prophecy. His creed is a 
renunciation of all creeds ; and every 
thing divine must be tried by the stand- 
ard of reason, as the only test of belief. 
He has no respect for St. Peter's chair, 
the tiara, or crucifix, nor the dark and 
gloomy subtleties of the Genevean reform- 



S4j 

er. He professes no reverence for the 
ceremonies of tbe Jews, but dissects the 
Thummim, and the Urim,and the Ephod, 
to discover if their construction offers any 
evidence that they responded the oracles 
of God. This man is formed to support, 
with great effect, whatever he chooses to 
adopt as his belief. To an exalted gen- 
ius, an unrivalled eloquence, and a vig- 
orous understanding, enriched by prodi- 
gious exertions, he unites an intrepidity, 
a fearlessness, and an hardihood, which 
defies diinculties antl danger. No objec- 
tion can be made to his system of morals, 
for it requires the brightest assemblage of 
virtues kept in constant exercise ; nor 
can any one impeach him for nonconform- 
ity to his own system. It is through the 
medium of his opinions alone, that he can 
be assailed. No blandishments will ever 
tye him to the distaff, or seduce him to 
waste his time in frivolity ; and his only 
danger is that in some hour of weakness 
he may be tempted to put on the poisoned 



25 

shirt of flattery^ bis admiring friends have 
so often presented him. But after all his 
labors^ be will find the moral world filled 
with abuses^ and overrun with monsters. 
Heaven has seen it wise that it should be 
soj in the nature and fitness of things. 

I am delighted with the system of Ju- 
risprudence of this Commonwealth. They 
have taken whatever is applicable to their 
situation from the common law of Eng- 
land — the law of their ancestors, and left 
its hard features, and monarchical char- 
acteristics behind. The invaluable code 
of the Civil Law is adopted in many in- 
stances where it is found more congenial 
to the manners and customs of these repub- 
licans ; and where both codes are inappli- 
cable, they have supplied deficiencies by 
their own statute book. Although I ad- 
mire their laws, I think the administration 
of them is still more perfect. This ex- 
cellence arises from the independence of 
their judiciary, and the superiority of their 
judges. The judges proceed in their du- 
3 



26 

ty uiiiiiliueuced by i^olitical feelings or 
changes, and dispense justice without fa- 
vor, fear or control. The independence 
of the judges is not founded so much on 
constitutional provisions for their perma- 
nence and security as on public sentiment, 
which is disturbed at once by the slight- 
est attack on the judiciary. The hum- 
blest citizen prosecuting his suit in their 
courts, knows no more of " the law^s de- 
lay or the insolence of office ^^^ but has his 
remedy, at law, as promptly as the opu- 
lent and influential. This people can 
never value this blessing too highly ; may 
they retain it in its purity and elevation, 
for ages. In all countries where the trial 
by jury is established, eloquence is power; 
but mere names, which when lawyers are 
powerful and the judges inferior, do much 
detriment to justice, never bias such a court 
as this. Among the counsel eminent at 
the bar in this place, (and there are many 
deservedly so) is Mr. P***-^^tt. This 
gentleman's character for .a great lawyer 



S7 

is solid and unquestionable, not founded 
on any whim of public favor, but cautious- 
ly built up by his own unremitting exer- 
tions. He commenced life under no ex- 
traordinary auspices of fame or favor; 
and never rested on any patronage or con- 
nexions. Every day beheld him increas- 
ing in property and knowledge ; and 
his prudence secured all that his indus- 
try gained. Passion never drove him, 
nor did the bubble, popularity, ever allure 
liim frem his fixed and stedfast course. 
His patience conquered every obstacle in 
his profession, and his perseverance reap- 
ed the benefits of his conquests. As the 
old lawyers went off the stage, without 
proffering any particular claims to occupy 
where they stood, he supplied their pla- 
ces ; and so smooth and regular was his 
upward course, that he moved by his e- 
quals without rivalry ; and they beheld 
him beyond them without envy. He is 
a safe counsellor, and a powerful advo- 
cate, well read in first principles, as well 



as the laws of his country. His brethren 
of the bar say that there is nothing sharp^ 
captious or over-bearing in his practice ; 
that he never makes a biting retort^ mere- 
ly to display his satirical powers ; nor 
like Grarrow or Gibbs puts a witness on 
the rack to show his strength^ and the ag- 
onies of the wretched witness. In new 
countries Vv here laws are few^ and incom- 
petent to the just arrangement of complex 
affairs^ it is generally supposed that their 
administration is free, simple^ and far re- 
moved from chicanery ; but this is a mis- 
take; from that very tleflciency bad prac- 
tice arises, and the law is made a trade, in 
which trick, cunning, and impudence make, 
up the art or mistery ; Imt, in Massachu- 
setts, the business is extensive, and vari- 
ous, and the laws numerous and well cal- 
culated for the happiness, and prosperity 
of the people. The framers of these laws, 
seem to have borrowed from every coun- 
try, and every age ; and this code with 
some imperfections has many excellencies^ 



29 



and lays claims with Englisli^ and Frencli 
jurisprudence, to the beauty and dignity of 
a science ; and its professors hold a high 
rank in the scale of mental superiority. 



I AM now on an excursion in the 
country, and have travelled leisurely, 
amusing myself with bird, and squirrel 
shooting, when I found proper ground. 
One morning I took my gun at the early 
dawn and was proceeding to enter a small 
piece of woods, the common'haunt of my 
game, when I observed a man rising from 
the ground who had been asleep ; his looks 
were wild and haggard, his garments torn, 
and he had an irou shackle on his leg from 
which a chain had been filed. He was a 
maniac who had escaped his keepers, and. 
had walked on until fatigue had overcome 
his strength and he rested, or rather had 
3* 



sunk ill this wood. I led him to a place 
of safety, quiet, and refreshment, and the 
good people who harbored him agreed te 
inform his friends where he was to be found. 
From the nature of the case, and the nat- 
ural constitution of the sufferer, I hfive but 
little doubt that attention ithd skill would 
restore him to sanity, and usefulness. This 
occurrence induced me to make enquiries 
what provision this enlightened, opulent, 
and humane State had made for their in- 
sane : — and the reluctant answer was, 
nothing is as yet effected ; or rather no 
plan is at present in operation. Some years 
since the Legislature granted an act of in- 
corporation for the purpose of establishing 
a general hospital for insane persons, and 
several active philanthropists were made 
trustees of the institution. The govern- 
ment did not stop here, but made a grant 
of an old mansion-house, formerly occupi- 
ed by the successive Chief Magistrates 
of the Commonwealth, with the garden 
grounds about it; to aid this important es- 



81 

tablishment. Many charitable individuals 
added liberal subscriptions, but its pro- 
gress is delayed by a want of a just sense 
of its importance to the public, in the minds 
of many accustomed to bestow largely on 
other institutions. This apathy cannot re- 
main long in Massachusetts — a State which 
so early after its settlement provided so 
generally for primary instruction in every 
town, establisaed and endowed a college 
while the foot steps of the savage were 
still fresh in the dust where they dug to 
place the corner stone of the ediftce ; — a 
Community which has sent missionaries 
to carry the glad tidings of the gospel to 
the remotest region of the globe ; and the 
first among the sons of freemen who abol- 
ished the cursed traffic in human flesh, 
emancipated their slaves, and in the ex- 
travagance of republican generosity ad- 
mitted them to the franchise of citizens. 
It is wonderful that in this country of be- 
nevolence and intelligence that no particu- 
lar establishment can be found to assuage 



32 

or heal the maladies of the mind ; wheu 
every town^ couiity, and in fact the whole 
commonwealth is formed by their excel- 
lent provisions^ into charitable societies ; 
where the destitute foreigner, as well as the 
native, is instantly relieved from Avant; 
where humane societies, female assylums, 
societies for spreading the gospel, educa- 
ting heathen youth, fragment and cent as- 
sociations, and all the blessed train of char- 
ities seem to rise like the flowers and fruits 
of Paradise, bringing comfort to mortals, 
and flinging their incense to Heaven. It 
is a fact that in this State there are more 
than one thousand maniacs, and not one 
has a proper place, or attentions for com- 
fort, or cure ; but are supported in gener- 
al at considerable expence, and incalcula- 
ble trouble. This thousantl may be con- 
sidered a great number in proportion to the 
amount of population, but we must reflect 
that there are many things to disturb and 
derange the mind, and bring on incurable 
infirmities in this country 5 climate, habits 



of livings vicissitudos of fortune^ wliere en- 
terprise is open to all^ and even their 
very liberties are among the causes of this 
evil. These active philanthropists who 
have taken the subject in hand have made 
a feeling address to the public on this sub- 
ject. — An appeal full of the warmth of 
charity^ and the inspiration of wisdom^ 
uniting the calculations of experience^ and 
the suggestions of prudence with the best 
feelings of our nature. A few men, how- 
ever intellectual, are not able to excite the 
interest of the community without long 
and painful exertions ; and to push this 
object to its proper extent^ the guardians 
of the poor, the magisk'ates, the ministers 
of God, the benevolent of all ranks and 
degrees of men, must unite and strive with 
misht and main until it is accomplished. 



34* 

I AM now at Haverhill, a beautiful vil- 
lasre situated on the left bank of the Mer- 
rimack, about eighteen miles from its 
mouth. It occupies the bank of the river 
a mile or more in length, the main street is 
close to the margin of the river, and follows 
its windings ; this is a busy, thriving, de- 
lightful place, with numerous stores of 
merchandise, a banking house, work-shops, 
two Meeting houses, several genteel dwel- 
ling houses, with many others pleasantly 
situated, with an air of comfort and con- 
venience about them ; ship-yards are scat- 
tered along the bank of the river, in the 
settlement. Several merchant vessels 
were on the stocks, and timber in great 
quantities ^Yas collected, suf&cient for ma- 
ny more. Many beautiful situations lie 
adjacent the village, but the most conspic- 
uous is called the Saltonstall place, about 
one half of a mile from the centre of the 
busy part of Haverhill, This was the 
residence, for more than a century, of an 
antient family of that name, which ha« 



35 

produced a succession of generous, and 
high minded men, distinguished in all the 
affairs of their country, civil, ecclesiastical 
and military, from its first settlement ; and 
the present descendants of this house are 
worthy their illustrious ancestors* This 
place is distinguished for attention to 
strangers, and unites the ease and freedom 
of village manners, with the taste, refine- 
ment, and splendor of the large towns. 
The upper classes are mostly connected 
by intermarriages, and form a family cir- 
cle which brings all the virtues of a well- 
regulated home, all the treasures of heart 
and mind into social life. Introduced to 
one gentleman of respectability, you at 
once share the politeness of all in the cir- 
cle, and feel an ease and pleasure which 
can never be found in the parade and af- 
fectation of constrained civility. These 
people are within a few hours ride of the 
principle towns in the state, and have 
such an extensive acquaintance with the 
inhabitants of each, that visiting and ev- 



ery other reciprocal attention is kept up. 
and produces a greater share of business^ 
and amusement, activity, and life, than 
can be found in any other spot of its size, 
I ever saw. I have passed but three 
days here, and feel myself quite at home, 
have examined their antiquities, for this 
place was early settled, — am acquainted 
with the fishing and shooting grounds, 
and on social terms with several of the 
inhabitants ; and although I am to day to 
leave it forever, yet 1 shall long cherish 
the remembrance of the amenity and hos- 
pitality of this lovely and intelligent vil- 
lage. 

Ilaverliill, like most other early settle- 
ments in New-England, suffered much 
from dread of the savages, and in fact, 
were frequently attacked, and many were 
killed, many taken and carried into cap- 
tivity. I have seen a rough door perfo- 
rated with bullets, to which the following 
history is attached. In August I7O8, this 
village was attacked by the Indians in 



37 

^he most sudden^ and ferocious manner. 
The savages in the dawn of the morning 
began a scene of massacre, pillage and 
conflagration. The parson of the parish 
defended his house with great bravery, 
but was shot through this door which I 
saw ; and all under his protection were 
m\irdered except two small children se- 
creted by his maid- servant in the cellar 
which the savages entered, and searched, 
but happily did not discover the children. 
Effected by some sudden panic, the sava- 
ges tied, and left the work of butchery 
unfinished. A few undaunted citizens 
were collected, and followed these ruth- 
less invaders, came up with them, gave 
them battle, dispersed them, and secured 
their packs, and other baggage which 
they had deposited a few miles from the 
place, to be more ready and expert in the 
work of desolation. I blush to record, 
that Frenchmen, though but a few, w^ere 
mingled with these monsters. Britain 
and France can never wipe from their es- 
4 



38 

cutcheous •' the damned sj)ots^' with which 
they are stained by the use of such infa- 
mous engines of war. Never did any 
other people contend with so frightful a 
foe as the first settlers of New- England. 
The native savages were of gigantic sta- 
ture, fleet in motion, capable of sustaining 
incredible hardships of cold, fatigue and 
famine, accustomed to Avar, glorying in 
blood and death, and fearlessly bidding 
defiance, and breathing vengeance for 
their real or imagined wrongs. They 
were stung to madness and fury to see the 
white men in possession of their lands 
and rivers, and their own w arriors dimin- 
ishing, and their power and consequence 
fast receding; but they struggled in vain, 
for no stratagem, strength, force or fury is 
a match for the cool determination of re- 
ligious pilgrims, who have made up their 
minds to martyrdom in the cause of Grod, 
and the freedom of opinion, and self-de- 
fence. 



39 

Aliliough a ceutary lias elapsed since 
the hostile savage has roamed over any 
part of Massachusetts, yet I am told that 
among those people who deal but little 
with the records of history tliat " the tales 
of other times'^ are kept alive by tradition. 
Some shrivelled gran'am. warmed to a pa- 
thetic remembrance of her early impress- 
ions, will frequently sing to a group of 
listening children the dirge of the brave 
Capt.Lovel^Tecount some disastrous feats, 
some providential escapes, or some dread- 
ful massacre of former days, and dwell 
as though she would never end on the pi- 
ety, as well as the sufferings of the past, 
and with a sigh exclaim against the profli- 
gacy of the present age ; — but this people 
have no talent this v/ay ; these stories 
sometimes wander into falsehood, but nev- 
er soar into fiction. 

I have carefully collected several of the 
effusions of their early muse, but have 
searched in vain to find one spark of ge- 
nius, or imagination in them ; those were 



40 

the offspring, not the inspiration of grief. 
These good people will never be called 
to answer for the high crime of wandering 
on the unhallowed ground of Parnassus, 
or drinking of the heathenish w aters of 
Helicon. At that period, they had no 
oiher models, muse or Apollo, than Stern- 
iiolds and Hopkins, two wretched scrib- 
blers, who translated the beautiful, ma- 
jestic, and divine poesy of David into hob- 
bling and vulgar English verse ; which 
Ibr many years was exclusively used in 
the worship of God, in the churches : — 
a profanation which their ignorance aud 
sincerity alone could expiate. This peo- 
ple did not want for genius, or ever 
shrunk from labor, it w^as the narrow and 
rigid rules of religious belief which quen- 
ched every poetical spark, and chilled the 
flow of fancy, and of soul. The wild, 
vast, and stupendous views of nature a- 
round them ; their own romantic aud tre^ 
mendous struggles, and heroic achieve- 
ments^ which in other nations, however 



41 

i2:norant and rude, would have burst into 

" Thoughts that breath, and words that hiirn^^'^ 
were quaintly described, and tamely nar- 
rated. Their descendants, for genera- 
tions, felt this thraldom of mind, but it is 
now passing, or has passed away, and the 
powers of taste and imagination are be- 
coming as prominent as their sturdy vir- 
tues, piety^ fortitude and patriotism. 

I have passed the boundaries of Massa- 
chusetts, and penetrated about forty miles 
into the neighboring State of New-Hamp- 
shire; as I journeyed through Derryfield, 
I became acquainted with Gen. S^^^k ; 
the aged hero of Bennington, who is now 
betw een eighty and ninety years old. This 
veteran has still the marks of a once in- 
trepid, daring man,— prominent features, 
lai^e muscles, and a martial voice, and 
step. His recollections of a remote period 
are fresh and distinct, but of these latter 
times, incorrect and confused. He was 
an officer in the old French war of ^5^, as 
it is called, when our arms were so success 
4* 



42 

fill; and the British lost that youthful he» 
ro, the gallant Lord Howe. This early 
experience in military affairs, gave S***k 
rank and consequence in the beginning of 
the revolutionary war, and we find him in 
the battle of Bunker-hill, so famous for the 
steady courage and deadly fire of an un- 
disciplined militia ; but at Bennington he 
gathered his laurels, and fixed his fame. 
The speech made by this officer to his 
troops, at that time, is remarkable for its 
yankee indirectness, and pithy brevity ; 
drawing his sword and pointing to the 
enemy, he thus addressed his followers : 
•• I am not much given to speech-making^ 
but, my brave fellows, there are the Brit- 
ish ; in faith, we must beat them, or my 
wife sleeps a widow this night :'^ the sol- 
diers caught his fire and determination, 
and pushed on with ardor, and in such a 
gallant style, that they killed, wounded, 
and captured almost the whole British 
d^itachmeato 



4a 

I love to turn, for a moment, from the 
blaze of modern improvement, and the 
splendor of modern genius, to contc'niplate 
the bold, rough, and inflexible virtues, and 
hardy features of primitive character ; suck 
as Rome exhibited under her old consuls 
Fabricius and Curius, antecedent to the 
ages of refinement and luxury : such as 
started up in the troublesome times in 
America, without the gtudes of literature 
and science ; who by the strength of theiu 
native powers, stood detached from the 
mass of mankind, inspiring confidence, an- 
nihilating doubt, and leading the people 
with firmness, and caution from hope to 
fruition. It gratifies the philosopher, and 
delights the statesman to minutely exam- 
ine the figure, and proportions, and cast 
of mind of such men, for they are an hon- 
or to our species, and a proof that nature 
has created her noblemen. 

I extended my journey to Canterbury^ 
the residence of a family of that singular 
religious sect; the shaking quakers, whose 



44 

principles are so dissonant to all the com- 
mon feelings and iiabits of human nature ; 
they profess to annul the marriage coven- 
ant, neglect the charities of parent and child^ 
and sink all other tender relations into the 
fraternal. Some of the wildest notions 
they once professed are in part given up, 
at least, so far as to be silent on those 
points ; — such as that true believers v^ould 
live on earth to meet the second coming of 
Christ. No one would believe, until his 
eyes had seen the influence of religious 
opinions on the conduct, and even persons 
of men. Their grave, quiet, and conten- 
ted looks, seem to give them a family cast 
of features ; and they live so regularly, and 
temperately, and much alike, that every 
countenance of all ages, appears full of 
health, and soundness. If they are not 
proof against the dart and scythe of Death^ 
they have by their temperance triumphed 
over his precursors, desease and pain. 
The young, among them,are kept in great 
Ignorance, particularly females. Several 



4j 

years since a young woman of eighteen 
made her escape from a family of shakers^ 
not this, and is now respectably married, 
and the mother of a large family. Her 
relation is, and she is a woman of decency, 
and veracity, that she was kept ignorant 
that human beings were born or die, she 
had some confused impressions from the 
analogies of nature, to which her eyes 
were open, but nothing distinct ; that ev- 
ery enquiry was evasively answered, 
and at times so hesitatingly and contra- 
dictory, that she shrewdly suspected that 
the truth was not told her ; and she was 
too inquisitive to be as happy as others. 
She had by the connivance of a friendly 
matron, kept against the laws of their or- 
der, her fine tresses of hair which was by 
>some accident discovered, and fearing it 
would be shorn by force she ingeniously af- 
fected an elopement. In their rural econ- 
omy the shakers are half a century in ad- 
vance of their neighbors ; their lands are 
well tilled and bear traits of industi-y. neat- 



46 

ness, and agncaltural knowledge. Their 
bouses^ barns, and work- shops, are con- 
venient and substantial ; and as artizans, 
in many branches, they are unequelled in 
this country ; for every article they under- 
take to sell is made with care, and faith- 
fulness, and of excellent materials. I saw 
a steel box and a waggon wheel of their 
make which for exquisite wormanship 
would be curiosities at Burmingham or 
London. But their highest honor, and 
most resplendent traits of character I have 
yet to name, and which in the eyes of be- 
nevolence will atone for all their deviations 
from the received opinions of the world : — 
This is a muniiicent,unostentatious,prompt 
and delicate charity, always extended to 
all who, from any painful calamity, have 
claims on public feelings and generosity. 
From their habits of trade their acquaint- 
ance is extensive, and their active sympa- 
thies never fall short of the sphere of 
their business, and often extend far be- 
yond it. 



47 

I found tlie travelling very easy from the 
excellence of the roads in this rocky, hUiv^ 
country. The people of New-England 
pay with cheerfulness a heavy high way 
tax on themselves, in their corporate ca- 
pacity as towns, and most of it out of 
the seaports, is paid in the labor of the 
farmers and their teams, to great public 
advantage. This tax in New-England, 
on the most moderate calculation is a mil- 
lion dollars annually. In addition to these 
common high ways, there are many turn- 
pike roads, private property for public use, 
made by special acts of the Legiskature, 
allowing a corporation to exist for each 
particular road, granting them the power 
of levying a certain and definite toll on 
whoever, and whatever passes. New- 
England contains about fifteen hundred 
miles of such turnpike road, which cost at 
least five millions of dollars ; this portion 
of the country is intersected by so many 
fine wide rivers, that the number of per- 
manent and expensive bridges, astonishes 



48 

the foreigner who expects to find every 
thing in its infancy here. No less than 
from seventy-five to an hiuidred toll bridg- 
es, which cost more than twenty thousand 
dollars each on an average ; and all kept 
in such good repair, that a traveller is sel- 
dom detained a moment by any obstacles 
so common in many countries. The fa- 
mous via Avpia, which has been a theme 
of praise for twenty centuries, allowing it 
to have cost fifty thousand dollars a mile, 
was not so expensive as a hundred miles 
of New-England turnpike roads, which 
can be selected. The distance from Can- 
terbury to Portsmouth is about fifty miles, 
through towns of well cultivated farms 
owned and occupied by men, who appear 
to have the means of independence and 
happiness in their possession. 

Portsmouth is a commercial town : the 
largest in the state, its population is not 
far from seven thousand souls. The man- 
ners of the people are different from most 
towns in New- England : for there is more 



49 

distinction in classes^and of course the mid- 
dling io.terest is not so substantial a body 
of men, as in many other places. This 
town is situated on the. river Piscataqua^ 
and has so fine and safe a harbor, that his 
British Majesty's ships made this their 
port before the revolution, Avhen on this 
station. Their last Grovernors sent from 
England, the two Wentworths, were men 
of great parade and show ; and the taste, 
and refinement, communicated by these 
gentlemen to the wealthy inhabitants, has 
survived the revolution. Portsmouth has 
been acknowledged by foreigners to pos- 
sess more genteel manners, cordialty, and 
hospitality, than any other place of its size 
in New-England. For several years past 
the literary and wealthy, speaking gener- 
ally, have had but little share in their 
town, and state relations, having been out- 
numbered by their political opponents ; 
and even when their own party were in 
power and office, in the state ; they were 
not precisely pleased with men, or meas- 
5 



50 

ures 5 and never seemed to enter into poli- 
tics with mucli spirit or interest. Ports- 
mouth as a town is not remarkably wealthy ; 
many merchants are rich, and have an exten- 
sive foreign commerce; but the place does 
not contain a fortunate number of that ex- 
cellent grade of citizens; extending from 
those just helow opulence ^ to those just 
above indigence ; who are in their several 
branches, the depositaries of no small share 
of the talents, and moral icorth of a people. 
Yet it cannot be denied that Portsmouth, 
has as much genius antl enterprize, and 
cherishes it better ; more of that sociability 
which gives a zest to life ; more of that 
openness, urbanity and kindness, which 
is the charm that attracts, detains, and de- 
lights, than some other places of equal 
magnitude, or more wealth, equality, and 
sober habits. These social virtues redound 
to their honor and praise, at home and a- 
broad ; they give the heart a warmer cur- 
rent of blood, the soul more elevation, the 
thoughts more expansion : and teach 



51 



them to bear calamity with a better grace^ 
and enjoy prosperity with a higher rel- 
ish. 



AT about seven o'clock in the morning 
I entered the town of Newburyport; its 
appearance was neat, elegant, and tasteful ; 
with fine side walks, wide, gravelled, and 
clean in almost every street. The build- 
ings were commodious, well made, and uni- 
ted an air of economy and convenience in a 
greater degree than I had before seen in 
this country. The houses of public wor- 
ship were numerous, for the number of in- 
habitants, and built in a style of simjdicity 
and beauty. From a little eminence, I 
counted the spires of eight churches ; — 
and from the same elevation I beheld the 
beautiful river Merrimack, which springs 
from a great lake with a long aboriginal 



52 

name, which I have forgotten, situated 
beyond the mountains, which indistinctly 
appear from this place, more than one hun- 
dred miles distant. This river winds 
through a wild and beautiful country and 
mingles with the ocean at about three 
miles from the tow^n. The banks of the 
river for more than a mile by the town, 
from the wharves, stores, docks, &c. had 
the appearance of a once extensive and 
busy commerce. I was delighted with the 
view, and continued to examine and en- 
quire into all that concerned this place. — 
I stared at the genteel people as they pass- 
ed who seemed to wear a gloom, a dejec- 
tion and perplexity in their looks. Tlie 
mass of the people appeared idle, but not 
indolent, listless and inactive without any 
marks of sloth. The cast of manners, 
here, seem formed from some great and 
deep impression, what, I could not conjec- 
ture ; but accident soon introduced me to 
an acquaintance who gave an ample ac- 
count of all the subjects of my enquiry. 



d3 

This was a thriving place before the 
great revolution, in this country, in 1775 
— in which our nation took such an active 
part, and in which our dear friend La 
Fayette gained such imperishable laurels. 
The generation which were active then, 
have mostly gone off the stage ; and w ith 
them their modes and manners and distin- 
guished hospitality. From the commer- 
cial prosperity of the first fifteen years af- 
ter the constitution of this country was es- 
tablished, a new race of men grew up, in- 
dustrious, frugal, who accumulated wealth 
rapidly, and spent it sparingly ; who had 
no habits of show, or parade, and but lit- 
tle taste for the refined pleasures of socie- 
ty; who preferred the hasty meal of busi- 
ness to the protracted delights of the 
" great man's feast ;" but who in public 
and private relations were ^good men and 
true.' Industry was then found in all de- 
grees of men, and plenty and happiness 
were generally diffused. This prosperity 
continued until the conflicts in Europe in- 
5^ 



54 

duced the government of this country, t© 
try their "restrictive energies;" then, this 
beautiful place began to decline ; the nerve 
of industry was unstrung, enterprize died, 
and idleness followed — want was at the 
door of some, and scantiness and poverty 
approaching to become the inmates of ma- 
ny, and all were inactive and anxious. 
The misery, which is not sufficiently pow- 
erful to subdue the pride and soften the 
affections, produces irratibility of temper 
and dries up the milk of human kindness^ 
and brings man back to some of the coars- 
est and worst feelings of savage life with- 
out the high fuindedness which is frequent- 
ly found in that state of existence. That 
intercourse which charms and delights in 
social life, which is formed of taste, habits 
and timenity of manners, and mildness 
and complacency of disposition can only 
be kept alive in prosperity. The social 
sympathies expire without the genial influ- 
ence of the good things of this world, 
would it were not so 5 but it is vain to 



55 

complain ; ifc is our nature. Not even iu 
France could our social circles exist dur- 
ing the agonies of the Revolution^ the 
public indeed were gay but the social cir- 
cles were all broken up. These good peo- 
ple found one virtue after another drop 
away, and many were altogether changed. 
— Urbanity was turned into moroseness, 
and generosity into parsimony, and chari- 
ty and good will into selfishness. — No in- 
tegrity, no hardihood can stand the buffets 
of misfortunes long. — Difficulties, and 
dangers may produce energy and exertion 
a while ; but a continuance of distress de- 
stroys the virtues which at first arose to 
combat them. In these circumstances the 
creditor grows hard, and sharp, and the 
debtor resorts to any subterfuge for relief. 
— Patriotism, and public spirit are lost 
when we must dwell every moment on 
ourselves ; and in such time«, narrow 
views, pitiful suspicions, and bigoted no- 
tions, in every form, fill the mind^ of 
men. 



56 

My new friend observed that this place 
contained materials lor good society ; that 
in it were many gentlemen of polished 
manners ; and nearly forty, in the several 
professions, and others, who had received 
the honors of the first Literary Institutes 
in this country : but they seldom met, he 
said, as in other places, at the dinner ta- 
ble, the supper party, or social club. 

The next day was Sabbath. I had 
heard that the day was observed with 
great strictness. 1 found it so. About 
eight o'clock on the morning of this day I 
walked round this place to be certain 
that my information was correct. It was as 
still as the camp of Israel on the night 
when the first born of Egypt were slain. 
The morning was fine, with a clear sky, a 
gentle westerly breeze; ^^the sear and 
^ yellow leaf of autumn'^ had prematurely 
fallen and the silence was more impressive 
by this intimation of the approach of win- 
ter, which in this climate, must be long 
and severe. I had felt tiie awful silence 



57 

of the desert taud the wilderness but it did 
not sink upon my soul like that stilness 
which then reigned among the habitations 
of men. At ten o'clock my friend conduct- 
ed me to somewhat of an antiquated build- 
ing, to hear prayers^ and a sermon, as is 
the fashion in this country ; he told me 
that the establishment was similar to the 
kirk of Scotland, The choir was excel- 
lent ; the prayer fluent and devout, the 
discourse in religious principles, was in 
unison with the tenets of that order ; but 
the explanations, and critical observations 
on the portion of scripture the speaker 
used as his theme were learned, ingen- 
ious, and satisfactory. The preacher's 
selection of words and phrases was felic- 
itous, and his whole style, neat, elegant, 
and forcible, gave me an exalted opinion 
of the taste and learning of this class of 
the clergy. After a hurried dinner I 
went again to attend a religious exercise. 
The building was more modern, the order 
that of the Church of England. This was 



58 

more like eur own mode of worship and 
of coarse I better understood it. The 
preacher read well, and performed all his 
ministerial functions, with ease, grace, and 
proper solemnity. The sermon diseover- 
ci3 an extensive knowledge of the powers 
of the human understanding, and of the 
philosophy of the heart, was full of prac- 
tical principles strikingly illustrated, chas- 
tily written, and eloquently delivered. I 
presumed after this, all religious forms 
and ceremonies were over for the day and 
that the people would assemble for pleas- 
ant exercise and innocent amusement, but 
to ray astonishment all v/as still again, un- 
til a third gingling of the bells summoned 
the people to some other religious assem- 
blage, but neither my curiosity or zeal 
would carry me any farther. — This peo- 
X)le keep the bow bent too long. The soul 
is not constituted to be Ions: intenselv de- 
votional. Under severe acts of reverence, 
and homage, the mind is exhausted, the 
imagination tires, and the affections grow 



59 

languid — The young, particular' v, are 
never drilled into virtue or religion. The 
cords of gentle affection bind faster, and 
stronger than the rigid shackles of austere 
authority. The virtues never flourish un- 
less they are first made household Gods. 
The father's house should be the place 
where the whole soul of the child should 
be concentrated ; — The place of his amuse- 
ment, instruction, indulgence, and protec- 
tion. Beneath the paternal roofare plant- 
ed the first seeds of intelligence and virtue, 
which are developed in the mature charac- 
ter. Greatness, patriotism and religion are 
all germed by the domestic fire- side, and 
watered, warmed, and cherished by pa- 
rental care, and solicitude. Youthful spir- 
its and gaity must be indulged in innocent 
diversions, or they will fiy off into mis- 
chievous activity. — Let me spend my days 
in the place where all its youth return af- 
ter years of successful business, (into what- 
ever part of the globe they may have wan- 
dered,) to enjoy what they have gained r, 



60 

and not in that place where stupor and 
irksomeness and austerity, drive even 
children from home, to return no more. 
It is now more than twenty years since 
our nation, taught hy her philosophers 
broke the chains of religious thraldom ; 
ground them to dust, and scattered them to 
the winds forever. In this violence relig- 
ion was disregarded and profaned. Time 
and experience have taught me that the 
visions of mere philosophy, however daz- 
zling and splendid, are vain and illusory. 
Man even in his pride of power is but a 
dependant mortal, and must, to be happy, 
have communion with, and dependance 
on his Creator ; but the medium of this 
communion should not be filled with awe 
and terror, but with love and reverence. 
God does not now speak in the thunders 
of Biuai, but through, the oracles which 
flowed from Divine Love. True religion 
is difficult to preserve. Liberality is apt 
to degenerate into latitudinarianism, and 
strictness into bigotry. Man is truly '^ a 



61 

^^ religious animal/' and likewise a super- 
stitious one ; and it requires great eleva- 
tion^ purity, and wisdom to cure him of the 
fondness to the wild, uncertain, wander- 
ings, and awful, and mystical feelings of 
superstition. I recollect when you and I 
were boys and studied with the good Ab- 
be, how" sincerely we made our confes- 
sions, and with what warmth and enthusi- 
asm joined in his prayers. This was the 
day, 

''When France before the Cross believed and slepV^ 
Do not think my friend that my misfor* 
tunes and my exile have made me a pil- 
grim and a preacher, but I always shud- 
dered at the infidelity and atheism which 
was once so prevalent among our friends. 
I have hardly awakened from the dream 
and delirium produced by the events of 
the last three years, but in time to come I 
will tell you what I know and see, not 
what I feel. 

You w ill be happy to learn that a hope 
of future prosperity is now reflected from 
6 



62 

the countenances of the good people I 
have been describing to you. They are 
quite engaged in a plan for improving 
their internal navigation by means of the 
fine river I mentioned to you. It has a 
few falls and shallows, the first must be 
passed by Canals, the other removed by 
forming a channel through them. All 
this is very feasible, and will ensure a 
good share of trade to the place. If this 
navigation is made free, the frieght for 
goods a hundred miles into the interior 
will be three quarters less than at present 
by land carriage ; and timber, and lumber 
of all kinds, can be brought down the 
stream from a great distance for a little 
more than half the present risque and 
charges; and the heavy articles of West- 
India produce, with Iron and Salt, can in 
the event of a good interior trade, be afford- 
ed in this place cheaper than in the Me- 
tropolis. The means of procuring these 
articles are as easy to the people here as 
they be any where. The storage, wharf- 



age, and all the incidental expenses, would 
be less here than in a larger place where 
rents, &c. were high. In a few years the 
ship-builder, the mechanic, the trader, the 
merchant, and indeed, all classes of the 
community would rejoice in its beneficial 
effects. Can it be effected? is the enquiry. 
From what I hear, it will be accomplished, 
for many of the principal merchants are 
quite active in the business. They are the 
men to carry into execution such a plan. 
The munificence of this class of men is 
generally directed by calculation to some 
permanent public good. The Dutch mer- 
chants expended millions of money in cut- 
ting canals, draining marshes, erecting 
exchange buildings, and in making their 
Cities marts for the commercial world. All 
they expended, is so much lastingly saved, 
for the conqueror spared their works which 
he had not leisure to destoy but plundered 
them of every thing of personal property. 
The mercantile character, in this coun- 
try, stands high : to the enterprize and 



economy of the De-Witts, they unite som- 
thing of the taste and refinement of the 
Medici ; Belgium and Florence, are one 
day to he giirpassed by this new people. 



THE next place I entered was Salem. 
twenty-four miles south east from the place 
I last described to you. Its appearance, at 
a distance w^as not imposing, for the site 
of the town is low, and there is no consid- 
erable eminence, as you enter it from the 
east, to afford an opportunity to extend a 
view over the whole ground at once. The 
main street through the centre of the town 
is paved for a considerable distance. The 
buildings exhibited a singular contrast^ 
for not a few of the old houses v/hich have 
stood near a century, strong, snug, but 
whimsically built, were interspersed with 
modern mansions which are spacious and 



65 

Splendid. Many of the public buildings 
are lav^e, and handsome, but it appeared 
singular to a stranger to see an old church 
standing directly in the market way, and 
almost under its droppings a fine market- 
house erecting with a town-hall, shops, 
and other tenements. The ground which 
the old church occupies is much wanted, 
but the religion, laws, or some reverence 
for this sacred antique must have opposed 
its removal. Perhaps it is private prop- 
erty which in this country as in England 
cannot be taken from individuals for pub- 
lic uses, without great form and many dif- 
ficulties, and much nicety of proceeding, 
even after many people are convinced that 
such an appropriation is for the public 
good. This is the boast of a freeman, the 
pride of his birth right, and the inherit- 
ance of his children ; — that his property 
shall never be taken without his consent, 
or a full equivalent for it, and this meted 
out to him by his peers, owners of estates 
by the same fee. 

6* 



66 

The hotel in wliich I lodge is a moderu 
building, a noble edifice^ a very castle ia 
magnitude, erected by a merchant who has 
left this place for the Capitol. He must 
have been a man of republican simplicity^ 
for his arms are not over the gate, nor on 
any part of the building that I could ob- 
serve, nor did any square, aqueduct, or 
public place bear his name, nor any in- 
scriptions to his munificence. It is prob-= 
able that this people have been ungrate- 
ful, and have forgotten to do him justice, 
i)v that his modesty forbid it. 

The inhabitants of this place have been 
stigmatized as a people confined in their 
views, and parsimonious in their habits, 
but the traveller does much injustice who 
takes the reputation of one age for the. 
character of another. The changes in the 
social relations of a country may be nearly 
as great as in her political relations, par- 
ticularly, in a country whose growth is so 
very rapid. Forty years since the people 
of this place were known throughout the 



67 

country, as an industrious, frugal, cautiouar, 
and tlirifty set of men ; even then they 
were frequently misrepresented and abus- 
ed. The stranger trusting to common re- 
port, looked at them and passed on, but 
carefully retailed all the slander he col- 
lected, hid his own ignorance of the state 
of society here in the abuse of it, and tax- 
ed his fancy to embellish the tales he gos- 
siped. 

Since that period, however, all acknowl- 
edge that a great change has been effected ; 
instead of that distant, unsocial, and sav- 
ing mode of conduct, a delicate discrim- 
inating hospitality is to be found. It is 
still true that you do not see here that 
anxiety to entertain every one, however 
questionable his shape, as in some towns ; 
but I will venture to say that no visitor of 
genteel manners, or respectable attain- 
ments, who comes here properly recom- 
mended, but receives a polite and hospit- 
able reception. The causes and progress 
of this change is said to be easily and die- 



68 

tinctly traced in their history. Soon af- 
ter the revolution in this country, a gallant 
and high minded young man, now Gener- 
al D***Yj son to an opulent merchant in 
this place, stimulated his father to the bold 
enterprize of communicating with the 
East-Indies, and bringing a cargo from 
beyond the Cape of Good Hope. The 
undertaking succeeded, and was repeated 
by this merchant until it became a regular 
business with him. The voyages were so 
profitable, that the example was followed 
by others, if not with the same, yet with 
great success, that it is now estimated that 
more than sixty millions of dollars value 
of India goods have been brought here by 
this adventurous people. In consequence 
of this great influx of wealth, the children 
of these merchants were well educated, 
for they were able to do any thing ; and 
many of the young men, after a course of 
classical studies, returned to the profes- 
sion of their fathers, and by their acquire- 
ments did much to «'"<*Uorate, and ele» 



69 

?ate the general character of their birth 
place. 

Several Institutions have grown up a- 
mong them^ which show their enterprize, 
liberality, and taste, particularly the East 
India Marine Society, This society have 
a museum of rare and valuable curiosities, 
collected from various parts of the East- 
ern world. The members are masters, 
factors, and super-cargoes of vessels in 
this India traffic. This collection is not 
exhibited for money, but may be seen by 
every decent stranger. I visited their hall 
of curiosities several times, and hardly 
knew which to admire most, the number 
and richness of the articles, or the ex- 
quisite taste in the arrangement of them. 
This arrangement, I understood, was made 
by Dr. B*****y, whose fame had reached 
us in France. The Dr. is a singular man, 
a bachelor near sixty years of age. His 
enemies allow him an acquaintance with 
a wide and diffusive ran2;e of literature t 
and freely acknowledge the benevolence 



7& 

of his hearty and the charities of his life ; 
but like Priestly he has grasped too much 
to be accurate and profound. He has en- 
gaged too deeply in politics for his hap- 
piness or fame. He has been the author, 
in a public paper printed here, of what he 
calls a summary of events, and things : 
It is a strange and bizarre production, 
containing every thing, from the wonder- 
ful to the trivial. Sometimes a scrap of 
ethics, history, metaphysics, geography, 
and common place remarks ; beginning, 
perhaps, with some profound discussions 
no national affairs, and ending in some vil- 
lage accident. As a divine he seems to 
reason on a new and singular analysis of 
the human character, and gives a strange 
interpretation of destiny, and providence. 
As a writer his sentences are involved, 
and elliptical ; not unfrequently spark- 
ling, but more often obscure. As an an^ 
tiquary he is most conspicuous, but even 
here, he differs from other men ; for to a 
profound and hallowed veneration fov 



7i 

what has been, and long since been, he 
adds an enthusiastic, and visionary belief 
of the perfectibility of that which is to 
come. 

The reputation of a politician, partic- 
ularly whose engine is letters^ is never 
fully understood, and justly estimated in 
his life time. In the contention between 
friends and enemies, admiration and ob- 
loquy, the exact truth is difficult, if not 
impossible to be found, even by those 
who have no prejudices, or partialities to 
indulge. Tooke, Priestly, Wakefield 
and Parr, are illustrations of this painful 
fact — tliat vast literary acquirements, and 
honest zeal are not always the safest 
guides in politics. Political animosity 
and party feelings once admitted into the 
walks of the Academy, or the halls of 
philosophy, are malignant spirits whom 
no exorcism can reach, no charm expel ; 
party zeal is the nightmare on the lovely 
bosom of learning, which distempers the 
imagination^ and gives distortion and car-^ 



7^ 

kature to mental vision, and paralysis to 
the social affections. 

General D***y, whose name was men- 
tioned in the history of the growth and 
prosperity of this place, has now retired to 
the country on the remnants of a once 
princely fortune, and makes himself hap- 
py in rural pursuits. This fortune was 
lost by bold adventures in adverse times; 
but while it was possessed was enjoyed in 
munificence and liberality. Gen. D***v 
was the patron of every valuable enter- 
prize, and the promoter of every thing 
which promised utility, and honor to his 
friends and country. The unfortunate 
never appealed to him in vain, for self 
w^as disregarded whenever he could do 
good to others. His charities have been 
conspicuous in both hemispheres. The 
forlorn French prisoners in India, have 
kissed his hand w hich was open to relieve 
them ; and the rough,destilute, and wretch- 
ed inhabitants of the Orknies, have writ- 
ten the tale of his bounties on the tablets 



73 

of their hearts ; and in fact^ there is scarce- 
ly a spot on earth which has not some 
honest chronicle of his generosity, chival- 
rous condnet, and goodness of heart. 
Should a Lav ALETTE throw himself on 
his magnanimity he would be found a 
Wilson and a Bruce, for such a man is 
always brave. If I were proscribed and 
in danger, I would seek his protection, not 
doubting but he would share with an un- 
fortunate stranger his last loaf, and de- 
fend him with his sword that he might eat 
it in peace. The selfish may secretly re- 
joice at his loss of fortune, for his deeds 
were a satire on their lives ; but the high- 
minded, and the noble will deplore that 
bis standing is not as elevated as his 
thoughts, and his means as immeasurable 
as the spirit of his liberalty. 

During my stay in this place I had a fa- 
vorable opportunity of seeing a military 
review. I knew the American soldiers to 
be brave, but thought them to be ignorant of 
military tactics ; but it is not so, my friend, 
7 



74 

for several companies I have seen here) 
would have done honor to any corps of 
men, in any army. Their movements 
were regular, elastic, and simultaneous, — 
No vociferation, bustle, or fever ; w hicli 
is always found among undisciplined 
troops, was to be discovered with them. -7- 
The manceuverings, and firings were ex- 
* act, and admirable. This review induced 
me to look forward to the period when 
this new world, would be the pride, and 
admiration of nations, in arms, as well as 
in arts ; in power, and extent of dominion, 
as v/ellas in the science of government. — 
The love of country produces a military 
taste, in all classes of men. As the corps 
of artillery passed a reverend chaplain. 
Dr. P ->i^ * * * e, between sixty and sev- 
enty years old, was pointed out to me. I 
was told he was much distinguished as a 
divine, and much more as a philosopher ; 
and I am certain he had the air of a vet- 
eran soldier. There can be no bigotry, 
when philosophy, religion, and patriotism 



75 

live together ; and in the study of Dr. P. 
are found the modern alembic ; with the 
christian fathers^ a philosophical appara- 
tus, with the volumes of Massilon. What 
enthusiasm it must give the soldier to see 
such a learned, and venerable officer?— 
What an honor to an army, is such a chap- 
lain ? Adorned and elevated, by human 
learning; and grown hoary in the minis- 
try of Heaven. I was shown in the crowd, 
at this review, in a citizen's dress, a young 
man, of a fine, hardy and martial form, 
and aspect, son to the venerable chaplain ; 
who is said to possess the elements of a 
great officer. He had never been high in 
command, but had acted for several years 
as a sort of Etat Major, for all the militia 
about here ; and had by his knowledge 
and exertions, produced much of the dis- 
cipline, and martial spirit I had wit- 
nessed. 

I had passed several days here, before 
I had an opportunity of being acquainted 
with Mr. B^*****h, the La Place of 



76^ 

America ; for he had been absent on busi- 
ness of State, being a councilor to the 
Chief Magistrate of this Commonwealth. 
He is about forty- three years of age, of an 
interesting person ; not exceeding the com- 
mon size, quick, and easy in his motions ; 
fluent, delicate, and insinuating in his con- 
versation ; and without effort pleases ev- 
eiy one, from the child to the philosopher. 
He seems at all times entirely unconscious, 
of his great powers, and wide spread fame ; 
and talks on every subject with the same 
simplicity, as though he had only a com- 
mon share in the dignity of human nature. 
His profound mathematical researches, 
\vhich surpass the labors of all men on 
this Continent, and probably equal any in 
Europe, save only our great La Place, 
effects neither his fancy nor his spirits, far 
he is pleasant, and communicative at all 
times. This self taught genius, has mas- 
tered every language, ancient or modern, 
in which his favorite science is to be found. 
While quite a youth he discovered an er> 



77 

ror iu the works of Newton ; but it was a 
loug time before he could make the phi- 
losophers understand or believe^ what he 
had proved. They dared not do it, for he 
was but a stripling; and Newton infalli- 
ble. At length it was corrected in En- 
gland by his exposure, but their magnani- 
mous scavans purposely forgot to give an 
American credit for his correction. In 
more advanced life he communicated with 
La Place, and pointed out some errors, 
which had found their way into his work ; 
and now mark the difference ; this correction 
was acknowledged by our countryman, 
and he claimed the man as his friend, who 
had taught him to make perfect his great 
work. This truly great man has no con- 
fined, mean, or envious views ; but rejoices 
to meet a kindred mind in every place ; his 
soul is elevated above the sphere of vulgar 
feeling, and like the eagle moves, and 
poises in a region nearer the eternal 
source of purity, and intelligence. 

7* 



78 

I have been indisposed several days, and 
in conformity to my constant maxim, 
*^ cuique in sua arte credendum est/' I 
had a physician ; who has now brought 
ine to a state of convalescence. This 
physician Doctor H * * * ^ ^ * e, is one of 
the oldest practitioners of physic in the 
world 5 for he has been nearly seventy 
years in his profession, and is now as 
sprightly as old Fontennell was at the 
same age. He called on me this morning 
without a top coat, though it is a cold au- 
tumnal day. This sage has seen since his 
entrance into life, a prodigious advance- 
ment in his profession : Anatomy was but 
incorrectly understood, and chemistry was 
ranked among the inscrutable mysteries 
of nature. He has, in his time, seen each 
of these branches rise to the dignity, and 
glory of a science ; and was himself among 
the first on this side the Atlantic, to hail 
the progress of reason. His coadjutors, 
were enlightened by his communications^ 
and his numerous pupils were taught the 



best method of acquiring what was know«^ 
and trying what was not satisfactory ; and 
the good man now reaps the reward of 
such a life, in the affection and reverence 
of the community. The monument of his 
fame is reared before his death ; formed 
by the number, talents, and usefulness, of 
those he has instructed. 

The clergy in this place, and vicinity, 
are of different denominations ; but as a 
body of men, are of pure morals and ex- 
tensive erudition ; and frara what 1 can 
learn have great influence in society. As 
there is not in this country, a. constitutional 
connexion between church and statCj^ 
this profession have but few motives to 
ambition; but still however "this last 
infirmity of noble minds,'' frequently 
shows itself in polemic divinity. The 
combatants are generally Trinitarians 
and Unitarians ; and they choose for their 
tilting match, some subject on the confines 
of the human mind, in the very twilight 
of the understanding j in the obscurest 



80 . 

regioa of metaphysical subtlety ; on this 
side which reason is always sure to be 
found, and beyond which faith lifts lier 
calm and undazzled eye. Tlie tourna- 
ment ends when these ecclesiastical knights 
are tired^and both parties with their friends^ 
are sure to claim the victory. This war- 
fare has its uses ; the genius, energy, and 
learning engaged, attract attention ; and 
many read, and enquire, who would nev- 
er have been roused by the subject in any 
other form. 



The lawyers here are men of talents, 
activity, learning, wit, and eloquence. 
They mingle much in society and form a 
distinguished part of it. I had a fine op- 
portunity of hearing two excellent speci- 
mens of their bar oratory. A cause came 
on to be tried before the court sitting here. 
A seaman brought an action against the 
master- mariner for cruel and abusive treat- 
ment. The cause was opened by Mr. S*****- 



8t 

***Y\, a gentleman of about thirty three or 
four, in behalf of the seaman ; and after the 
examination of his witnesses, he rested the 
cause until the defence was made by Mr. 
D^^E, who appeared to be near sixty 
years of age, and the oldest member of the 
bar, but was in full possession of all the 
powers of his understanding. Every thing 
about him was precise, logical, and minute : 
His voice was clear, but not harmonious^ 
his delivery fluent but not animated, and he 
neither offended taste, nor delighted the 
imagination. He is reputed to be a pro- 
found black letter lawyer, and I have na 
doubt but the reputation is just, for I nev- 
er heard a man whose whole argument 
partook so much of the form, and spirit of 
the reasoners of the old school, in this pro- 
fession, whose inspiration was said to flow 
from the smell of antient deeds, and time- 
worn parchments. The whole defence 
was put upon the necessity of discipline, 
and the propriety of corporeal chastisement 
to produce proper exertions, obedience and 



83 

subordination, in which he contended con- 
sists the strength and stability of society 
in general ; and strenuously maintained 
that commercial prosperity and naval suc- 
cess, was built on the great extent of pow- 
er, custom had given the master of a ship. 
This grave, learned, profound, and acute 
common-law lawyer, who never makes 
a gesture, or admits a figure of speech ; 
who addresses the understanding in the 
driest manner, and the most technical 
forms, is, a safe counsellor, and an able 
advocate, and just such a man as the old 
lawyer Finch would have been proud to 
own, and held up as a model to all young 
practitioners. You will smile at my fre- 
quent mention of England, and English- 
men, but this people having sprung from 
that nation, and adopted their laws, cus- 
toms, and opinions, it is impossible to il- 
lustrate the American character by com- 
parisons, or parallels with any other peo- 
ple, of any age; and our enmities and ad- 
miration have made us acquainted with 



1 



88 

English history^ iiirtitutions, laws, and 
characters. 

The advocate for the seamen rose in re- 
ply, and my prejudices were, perhaps, en- 
listed against him, for his person and com- 
plexion were those of a fair and athlete En- 
glishman; but they were soon dissipated 
by the spirit and fervor of his eloquence. 
After a candid and lucid statement of all 
the circumstances in the case, and a just 
exposition of the rights, and duties of the 
relative parties, he dwelt upon the extent, 
and nature of the injury to his client; the 
propriety of a full reparation to the injur- 
ed; and the necessity of exemplary dam- 
ages for the good of society. The whole 
address was so full of a deep, but to him, 
familiar knowledge, and an high sense of 
the rights of a freeman, so glowing with 
humanity, and so warm from the heart, 
that to my feelings, the appeal would have 
been irresistible. Before he finished his 
speech, my opinion changed, and I was 
ready to believe his veins were animated 



8^ 

with the blood of our natiouj but both con- 
jectures were incorrect^ for I was inform- 
ed that he was a native of this county, 
and descended ii «j5n one of the first, and 
most respectable settlers of this country, 
and had never been abroad. My passion 
f and taste for eloquence was formed in the 
school of the immortal Mirabeau, whose 
praise 

** Time with his own eternal hps shall sing," 
and practised in the harangues of a camp 5 
yours was formed and nurtured in the 
proves of philosophy and retirement, 
where manner is nut much studied, or the 
gifts of voice or person held in very high 
estimation, and of course we must differ 
in our standards of excellence. 



S5 



YOU requested me to give you the full 
history and character of that political corps 
^Uhe Essex Juuto/^ whose name has 
reached every corner of the globe^ but 
whose organization and particular design 
has never been by us fully understood. 
In France^ from the frequent mention of 
^^the Essex Junto'^ in their National As- 
sembly, and from the manner they were 
spoken of, we supposed they were our 
deadly enemies, and the unwavering 
friends to our great rival. I expected in 
this celebrated county of Essex, to have 
found a class or order of men ornamented 
by stars and garters, or some other impe- 
rial insignia, which would have proudly 
told the world that they were members of 
^^ this Junto." Men, whose haughty de- 
meanor would leave no doubts on the 
mind of the traveller, that the fundamen- 
tal principle of their order was a solemn 
promise of perpetual hatred to Republics, 
8 



86 

and eternal friendship to kings. I really 
thought to find men who would openly 
and boldly declare that their country would 
never be prosperous, or hold a rank among 
the nations of the earth, until they had 
presented some aspiring statesman or am- 
bitious soldier with a crow n and sceptre, 
and instituted an order of nobility. You 
will deem it wonderful when I declare to 
you on my honor, that after the most scru- 
pulous enquiry among politicians, mer- 
chants, farmers, artizans and lawyers in 
the palace, and in the cottage, in their pri- 
vate circles, and public places, in town, 
village and country, that no such order 
did exist. The whole story of this fa- 
mous order is entirely false. These peo- 
ple are the most quiet and gentle I ever 
saw. There are more men in Essex who 
sup at home like honest citizens, say their 
prayers like christians, and go to bed and 
sleep undisturbed by the dreams of pow. 
er, or the restlessness and agonies of am- 
bition, than in any other place in the civil- 



^ 



87 

ized world. But you will ask how came 
this shadow, if no substance ever existed? 
How came this name, if no order was ever 
formed? I will answer: From the best in- 
formation I could obtain, and every source 
was opened to me, that the origin of the 
name ^^ Essex Junto'' was this: — Dur- 
ing the revolution there lived in this 
County of Essex, many enlightened 
and firm statesmen, who wxre fervent 
and sincere in their attachment to the 
cause of liberty, patriots without stain or 
reproach ; but who feared that the peo- 
ple of this country after the struggle for 
their independence was over, would be 
remiss and backward in forming good 
constitutions and making wholesome laws 
for the tranquility and prosperity of the 
country. These sound politicians fre- 
quently saw each other, and expressed 
their fears and anxieties, and of course 
were constantly suggesting among them- 
selves some hints and plans to prevent 
the anticipated evil. 



88 

In 1780, they moved the people of this 
commoawealth^ as this department or can- 
ton is called, to form a constitution, which 
is the same they now live under. This 
constitution is guarded by the most 
scrupulous caution against every partiali- 
ty for royalty. An abjuration, renuncia- 
tion and denial of every kindred feeling, 
affection or allegiance to Great Britain, or 
any Principalities, Potentates, or Powers 
must be repeated in the form of an oath, 
by every one who holds an office under it. 
This does not look like a longing after 
royalty : no, it is the very jealousy of re- 
publicanism. At a later period, when the 
people throughout this wide extended 
country, embracing many States or de- 
partments, all governing themselves, but 
feeling the necessity of some general 
Head to obtain national power, dignity 
and glory, these enlightened men were 
prepared to sketch and defend a form of 
government adapted to the wants and 
tastes of the American people. They had 



S9 

compared at home their own views and 
brought them to harmonize. Those who 
had only crude notions of restraints by 
constitutions and laws^ boisterously at- 
tacked every thing mature and wholesome 
that was offered to the public. These 
demagogues severely felt the influence of 
such talents and character as was then la- 
boring for their good, and thought to des-^ 
troy their influence by making them sus- 
pected. — The association of a few to pre- 
serve their liberties, was represented as 
the combination of many to destroy them ; 
and some one in an evil hour baptized 
these patriots-^^ The Essex Junto." This 
was a powerful watch- word in the mouths 
of those who wished for no law or order; 
for it alarmed the timid, the jealous, and 
the ignorant, and the name was made to 
represent all that was hateful in aristoc- 
racy and monarchy. These friends of their 
country struggled on until a constitution 
and laws were made and in operation, 

8^ 



m 

in defiance of obloquy and opposition. 
No man at this day uninfluenced by par- 
ty madness, but venerates the few revolu- 
tionary statesmen now living, and honors 
the memory of the dead ; and in the pride 
of his heart boasts of tliem as his country 
men, and acknowledges they were beacon- 
lights in the night of anarchy, and firm 
pillars in the temple of freedom, when the 
storm had gone by. This opprobrious e- 
pithet continues, because, many ordinary 
men have come into power and influence 
and are willing to take the aspersions 
heaped on better men, who have gone be- 
fore them, thinking thereby to share their 
glory ; and proceed most gravely to imi- 
tate them without understanding their mo- 
tives or characters. These men are furi- 
ous, because, the patriots of 1/76 were 
zealous; obstinate, where they were firm, 
and pertinacious, where they were fixed. 
When the occasion which calls forth the 
energies of great men is passed, they re- 
tire, for those they have served are fre=^ 



91 

quently forgetful if not ungrateful ; and in- 
offensive mediocrity, supported by wealth 
and connexions, are lilted into the high 
places of activity and genius. 

I will send you a few slight sketches 
of some of their great men who were on 
the stage, and actors, in those important 
days, vvlien all tliey had, or hoped, was 
put on the point of tlie sword, and risqued 
on the event of the battle. They will be 
just, but scanty epitaphs, or if I proceed 
to say any thing of the living, hasty me- 
moirs, which I hope will awake their own 
biographers to furnish for the public a 
minute detail of the lives of the eminent 
men, who had the fortune of displaying 
their talents and exercising their virtues, 
at a time, wlien all were wanted, and ev- 
ery one found his proper place in the 
ranks of duty, and of course, deserves 
his proper niche in the temple of his coun- 
try's fame. 



Among the number, and one who stood 
conspicuous was Nathaniel Tracy, Esq. 
He was liberally educated, and after leav- 
ing the university in 1769, settled as a 
merchant in Newburyport, his birth 
place. Assisted by his father's opulence, 
and early connected with a lady of con- 
siderable fortune, he was soon known 
for the variety, extent, and success of his 
business. At the commencement of the 
revolution he was foremost among the 
sons of liberty, and staked his fortune, his 
prospects, his fame, and life on the event 
of the contest. At this time all who were 
able fitted out privateers ; and Trncy's 
were among the most successful. While 
fortune seemed daily pouring her show- 
ers of gold upon his head, he was actively 
engaged in diffusing it for the good of the 
community. He made large advances, in 
clothing and munitions of war, for the ar- 
mies then just organizing, uncertain if the 
Congress, collected and held together by 
political necessity, would ever be able to 



93 

pay him a favthiug. At this crisis his 
houses were thronged by men of letters^ 
officers, naval and military, merchants, 
foreigners, and statesmen. Every one 
was found around him wiio could bring 
pen, tongue, sword, wealth or influence in- 
to the cause of liberty and Independence. 
The magnitude of his commercial rela- 
tions, his patriotic sacrifices in the cause 
of his country ; the munificence, and hos- 
pitality of his establishments, his patron- 
age to deserving individuals threw around 
him a Medicean splendor which attracted 
the gaze and reached the hearts of citizen, 
and stranger. Such a man, and the ne- 
cessity for such an one, will never, proba- 
bly, again occur in this country. But the 
Sun whose beams were so georgeous, and 
waked into life and action such a busy cre- 
ation was soon to suffer an eclipse, and be 
forever shorn of its original brightness. 
Xhe British, who were mortified and vex- 
ed at losing so much valuable property by 
Aaiericau cruisers, made such efforts to- 



wards the close of the war^ that most of the 
American armed vessels and merchantmen 
were swept from the ocean. The days of 
adversity began now to thicken, in his cal- 
lender, as rapidly as the days of prosper- 
ity once did ; and misfortune followed 
misfortune, until 1781, found him involved 
beyond the hope of redemption, and he 
retired to a country seat, avoided the 
world, and in a few years fell a victim of 
sensibility. The man who did so much 
good, and at such a period, freely and 
heartily, merits of his country a splen- 
did monument and an ample page in her 
annals. His younger brother, John Tra- 
cy, Esq. lately deceased, his partner in 
business and coadjutor in every patriotic 
labor in his prosperity, was a man of ed- 
ucation, excellent disposition, and gentle- 
manly manners. 

The Hon. Jonathan Greanleaf was a 
native of Newburyport, and lived until he 
was eighty-four years old ; with the gift of 
fine natural talents, a considerable shave 



95 

of improvement^ a genteel pevson^ a cour- 
teous demeanor, bland and coneilatory 
manners, with a peculiar tact for public 
life, he filled many important offices, for a 
long series of years, with honor to himself 
and advantage to his country. He under- 
stood better than most other men the signs 
of the times, and knew precisely when to 
advance and when to retreat, what the 
people would bear and when they would 
become restive. He used such gentle and 
delicate persuasions to overcome his oppo- 
nents, and to cheer his friends, that the 
populace gave him the appellation of 
'' silver tongue.^' 

In troublesome times he was associated 
with those great luminaries, Parsons, and 
Cabot, and what they projected his ad- 
dress and perseverance carried into effect. 
In every '^ storm of state ^^ he Avas seen 
on the billows in a political life boat, 
pouring oil on the waves to calm their 
rage, and dexterously managing to gain 
•^ the point proposed '^ 



98 

Literary men of all nations are mostly 
on the side of liberty. The clergy of 
New -En gland were among the first to 
spurn at the tyranny of the mother coun- 
try. From their piety, learning, and af- 
fectionate attention to their flocks, their 
infliienee was unbounded. When the 
country called for soldiers for their ar- 
mies these good men mounted the pulpit 
and preached the ranks full. 

The Bards who cursed Edward and 
his race might have been more poetical 
but not more animated and sincere than 
these virtuous pastors in breathing the 
wrath of Heaven on George and his Pre- 
mier, Lord North. 

Many men of the first intelligence 
and integrity, among the divines of that 
day, labored to temper this zeal and to 
keep the flame from wasting by excess, or 
expiring from disappointment. Among 
the number whose zeal was according to 
knoivhdge, and whose enthusiasm was 
regulated by prudence was the Rev. 



97 

Thomas Cary of Newburyport, an accom- 
plished scholar, a sound theologian, a 
man of a susceptible heart, of refined and 
social feelings, a gentleman of easy and 
dignified manners, who mingled familiarly 
with the world, but who on all proper oc- 
casions knew and felt the spirit of the 
maxim, ^' Magnijiccibo meum apostola- 
*' turn.'' Supremely attached to his profes- 
sion, and alive to all its duties he rejoiced 
with the fortunate and wept with the bro- 
ken-hearted. At the bed of the dying he o- 
pened the promises, explained the hopes 
of the gospel, and taught their souls to feel 
that the mercy and love of Grod surpasses 
all understanding. 

In ecclesiastical questions of doubt and 
difficulty, he was consulted by his breth- 
ren as a counsellor, for in addition to 
his general information he Avas accurately 
acquainted with the history and govern- 
ment of the churches in New-England 5 a 
subject of common law drawn from cus- 

9 



98 

toms and usages since the first settlement 
of this country. 

He cherished the remembrance of the 
hardy virtues, and gleaned every histori- 
cal fact of the '^ mighty dead^^ of his coun- 
try, with the warmth of a patriot, and the 
perseverance of an antiquary : But he has 
rested from his labors and found a more 
competent eulogist in his enlightened suc- 
cessor than can be expected from the pas- 
sing traveller, who only ventures to drop 
his humble sprig of cassia on the grave of 
genius and virtue, as he lingers among the 
tombs of departed worth. 

The Hon. Jonathan Jackson was a na- 
tive of Boston, but early in life settled as 
a merchant, spent his most efficient days, 
and reared his children in Newburyport ; 
and was before, during, and after the rev- 
olution, an Essex man. His understand- 
ing had reached its maturity, and his repu- 
tation was well established in 177^, when 
that bright, and glorious Galaxy of Essex 
patriots spaned the political hemisphere, 



99 

and sheding lustre on each other and light- 
ed the way to independence and the bles- 
sings of a free government. 

In these times of confusioUj his precis- 
ion and arrangement in public^ and pri- 
vate affairs^ served as an example in ma- 
ny proceedings which otherwise would 
have been loose and irregular, from igno- 
rance of the value of form, and method. 
Several of the luminous political tracts 
which at that time came anonimously to the 
world, were satisfactorily traced to his 
pen, and were acknowledged by all to be 
full of practical good sense, and republi- 
can principles. From the constant exer- 
cise of thai politeness which is formed of 
courtesy, philanthrophy, and delicacy of 
taste, he was uniformly considered as the 
^' Arbiter Elegantiariim^^ in the refined 
society in which he moved ; and indeed 
such sincerely affectionate, and elegant 
manners attract the notice and command 
the respect and admiration of every grade 
of men in the community. 



100 

Several years before his death Mr, 
Jackson removed to Boston and held offi- 
ces of responsibility and honor in the com- 
monwealth. 

William Coombs, Esq. was another of 
these firm, and well principled patriots 5 
whoj without ambition or expectation of 
personal aggrandizement, pressed forward 
in the struggle for independence ; and vo- 
lunteered his services, and risked his life 
and property, to bring munitions of war 
from the French West India Islands, 
when the colonies were almost destitute 
of these articles ; with this difficult mis- 
sion he sailed, and performed the voyage 
with dispatch, and success. Active and 
influential, he was always at his post ; 
whether wanted as one of the committee 
of safety, or corps of protection. His 
commercial business was extensive : and 
from change of times frequently embarras- 
sed, and perplexing ; but his course was 
uniform, open, and upright; full of jus- 
tice, gentleness, and generosity. He had 



101 

seen much of the world, and understood 
the motives and feelings, which govern 
the great mass of mankind ; but no disap- 
pointment, mortification or villiany, he ex- 
perienced, ever gave his temper the slight- 
est tinge of misanthropy ; but only in- 
creased his exertions to make men more 
honest, intelligent, and religious. His 
example in society, was beyond all price ; 
for he added the liberal feelings, and deU 
icate manners of the accomplished gentle- 
man, to the purity of the most exact moral- 
ist, and the tender conscience of the chris- 
tian disciple. His virtues seemed to cre- 
ate an atmosphere of holiness around him, 
for at his approach ribaldry shrunk abash, 
ed, and blasphemy was dumb ; cheered 
by his smile poverty forgot his wants, and 
in his presence despair felt a pulsation of 
hope. Providence in kindness continued 
this philanthropist and christian, until 
near eighty years old, as a reproof to all 
selfishness, and an example of " every 
virtue under Heaven,^^ 
9^ 



10S 



-" From hi« cradle, 



" He was a scholar, and a ripe, and good one ; 
« Exceeding wise, fair spoken, and persuading/* 

The Hon. Samuel Phillips, was a na 
tive of Andovevj in this County ; and had 
just left his college- wallsj as the revolu- 
tion commenced ; but at that time of life 
he exhibited such maturity of mind, and 
so much decision of character ; that the 
people of that large, and important, agri- 
cultural town, solicited him to take a lead 
in public affairs ; which he did with such 
wisdom, and prudence as to fully justify 
their confidence. He was one of those 
rare men who are sober in childhood, and 
grave in youth ; and in possession of fine 
natural talents, rapidly improved them by 
method and economy of time. Scarcely 
had the peace been won, and indepen- 
dence secured ; when Phillips with his 
father, and uncle, penetrated with a deep 
sense of the importance of a general dif- 
fusion of knowledge and virtue, to make 
liberty a blessing; appropriated a con- 



103 

siderable portion of their property to the 
encouragement of learning, morals, and 
piety ; and established that excellent sem- 
inary in Andover, which bears their name. 
To bring this Institution to promote tlie 
great ends the patrons had in view, was 
the prime labor of his life. Mr. Phillips 
was in public life, from the earliest stage 
of manhood ; and j&Ued the offices of re- 
presentative, senator, judge, and trustee, 
and patron of almost every valuable insti- 
tution in New -England ; but notwith- 
standing all these public employments, he 
enjoyed much of private life ; in which he 
exercised all the social^ and domestic vir- 
tues. In every pursuit he vv^as distinguish- 
ed for promptness, punctuality, and prac- 
tical good sense ; and his short life, by or- 
der, exactness, and method, was filled 
with incredible attentions to business. — 
As an orator, he was in the first grade of 
eminence ; his speeches were clear, con- 
else, logical, direct, and nervous ; but he 
made no effort to amuse the fancy, and 



104 

never sacrificed any thing to mere rhet- 
oric. His compositions were written in a 
style of elegant severity, modeled on that 
of Sallust, full of accuracy, strength, and 
precision. He possessed a constitution 
naturally good, but exhausted and worn 
out, by unremitted toils and labors, for 
the good of mankind ; lie expired at the 
premature age of fifty-one, in the office of 
Lieut. Governor of Massachusetts ; loved 
mourned, and honored by the wise, good, 
and patriotic. 



10^ 



I could not leave Essex witlioiit visit- 
ing Mavblehead, celebrated for the hardi- 
hood and humanity of its inhabitants. The 
town is situated on a bluff or head of land, 
four miles from Salem ; and contains about 
five thousand people, mostly engaged in 
fishery and commerce. They have some 
men among them of affluence, but most of 
them, are dependent ou the enterprize, in- 
dustry, and success of the season. The 
vicissitudes of want and plenty, the expe- 
rience of hardships and dangers incident 
to a sea-faring life, gives them rough and 
boisterous manners, but cherishes the 
most active and disinterested benevolence, 
which the shipwrecked mariner of every 
nation has often experienced from their 
hands, and the philanthrophist recorded 
in every journal of the world. The pur- 
suits of the place make it a nursery of first 
rate seamen for the navy, and Marblehead 
has had her share of the sufferings, and 



106 

the glory, in all the Ameriean naval victo- 
ries. So many of the inhabitants of this 
place are so constantly exposed to the dan- 
gers of the ocean, that every storm multi- 
plies the list of widows, and orphans ; but 
the people struggle on with such fortitude 
that the population increases 5 for poverty 
only throws them on the resources of a 
daring and active spirit. It is agreed by 
all political parties, those who condemn, 
as well as those who approve of their 
creed, that the people of Marblehead, 
have constantly shown a disinterestedness, 
and firmness in their patriotism, which de- 
served the best of causes. During the 
restrictive system of warfare which is 
gone never, never, to return, these peo- 
ple bore tlieir privations, which were 
greater than were felt by any other town 
in the United States, without curse or 
murmur against its authors. They drag- 
ged from the deep one fare of fish after 
another, only to be cured, stored, and to 
rot, before the articles could be brought 



107 

to a foreign market. They were cheer- 
ful while striving for a bare subsistence 
through uncertainty^ and peril^ for they 
verily thought, these things were to re- 
dound to the ultimate good and honor of 
their country. In passing through the 
streets a traveller would not think that 
the vestal virgins were the patronesses of 
the place ; nor ever once doubt that brav- 
ery, and humanity were its tutelar divini- 
ties. If this ledge of rocks is not '^ con- 
secrated to Dian/' yet it can be proudly 
said by them that no vile extortioner, no 
base coward, can breathe this atmosphere 
of the brave ; and the wretch who has vio- 
lated the rights of hospitality, or shunned 
an act of humanity is banished from Mar- 
blehead with a jacket of tar and feathers, 
a most indignant ostracism, which seems 
to trample on the Platonic description of 
the animal man — a *bipes implumis.' In a 
town so populous there are always a class 
of the refined and genteel to whom gen- 
eral observations cannot iu every respect 
apply. 



108 



WHEN I returned to Boston, the Le- 
gislature of this Commonwealth was in 
session, and I had sufficient opportunity to 
examine their method of passing laws, 
and transacting other business. The num- 
ber of the senate is fixed by the Consti- 
tution at forty, chosen by districts on a 
valuation of property. The house of rep- 
resentatives is large, about ^\e> hundred 
members, elected bv the towns in the state 
upon a ratio of rateable polls, but the num- 
ber is not always the same as it is left to 
primary assembles to be fully, partly, or 
not represented at all, as they please. 
The members of both branches are return- 
ed annually. In the Senate the members 
are seated according to seniority at the 
board. In the house of Representatives 
each member draws for his seat and the 
orator rises and makes his address where- 
ever he may chance to be seated, for there 



109 

is no rostrum for him to ascend. The 
speaker of the house^ as the presiding of- 
ficer is styled, is a man passed fifty years 
of age, a distinguished lawyer, who ap- 
pears perfectly acquainted with the rou- 
tine of his buisness in this olfice, and has 
such a retentive memory that after a few 
first days of the session he is perfectly ac- 
quainted with the names and persons of 
every member of this great body. His 
readiness is surprising, for he disposes of 
a great mass of papers with a sort of mag- 
ical celerity. This certainly gives expe- 
dition to business, but some times prevents 
discussion when it would be useful ; and 
debate is frequently shortened by this de- 
sire to do too much. But this is the fault 
of the people, for they are constantly 
harping on the economy of time, and are 
anxious, and restless to make a short ses- 
sion to save expense and gain popularity. 
By this course many things must be done 
slovenly,as sufficient time is not allowed to 
mature, correct and polish. The speaker 
10 



110 

appears to be a man of warm temperament, 
but all parties bear testimony to his im- 
partiality, and solicitude for the public 
weal. In politics he is a disciple of the 
inflexible school of Washington, in mor- 
als a philanthropist and a christian. His 
prejudices are rather strongly set against 
the policy which has for several years 
past been pursued by the National Gov- 
ernment in this Country. Such a man 
may err politically, but can never be mor- 
ally wrong. In private life he is highly 
esteemed for his hospitality, and domestic 
and social virtues. His wit, anecdotes and 
pleasantry, are all used without one parti- 
cle of malignity, and make him the delight 
of the festive, and cheerful. 

A man must be a legislator in this state, 
to obtain information, to do good, or for a- 
musement, jiot for emolument; the pay be- 
ing only tM o dolls, a day and an additional 
two dollars for the speaker of the house and 
president of the senate. This is their on- 
ly pecuniary compensation, for fees of of- 



Ill 

fice are not allowed. Pensions arc never 
granted by this Government to old servants 
of the public, and when they are worn out, 
by reason of age and labors, are cast off 
without pecuniary provision or honors, and 
hardly remembered at the end of the year : 
So is patriotism rewarded in a Republic — 
The members of the House are taken from 
all classes in the community, yeomen, phy- 
sicians, merchants,mechauics and lawyers, 
and many among them are men of capacity 
and good speakers. I saw several mem- 
bers of common education who possessed 
great solidity, and shrewdness, inaccurate, 
it is true, in their speeches, but who under- 
stood legislative proceedings, and were in- 
fluential and useful. Others of the higher 
classes of mind and endowments, are o- 
bliged to make many every- day and mere 
business speeches, from the general rage 
for dispatch. Sometimes a subject comes 
up which offers more opportunity for pre- 
paration, and when this is the case an a- 
ble and an eloquent debate generally, en- 



lis 

sues, ia which the whole strength of the 
House is called forth ; all the talents put 
in requisition ; and the display is such as 
would do honor to any deliberative assem- 
bly. Several subjects have lately been on 
the tapis which brought out most of their 
first meu; but I can only notice a few, out 
of many, I had the satisfaction to hear. 

Mr. T**'^r of Boston brought into the 
House a resolve for appropriating fifty 
thousand dollars, from the public treasu- 
ry, for the purpose of erecting a building 
in the town of Boston to contain the libra- 
lies, curiosities, and other property, of 
the incorporated literary and scientific 
institutions in the State, with large and 
commodious rooms for the public meet- 
ings of the societies ; the fee of the build- 
ins; to be in the Commonwealth. The 
advantages of such a plan were explain- 
ed in a speech, he made on the subject, 
at considerable length. The orator dis- 
covered an extensive knowledsre of sim- 



113 

iiar institutions in Europe^ particularly 
in Fi-anee and England, and all the pat- 
ronage they had received from their res- 
pective governments. His eloquence and 
zeal did him credit, but fell ineffectual on 
the heavy senses of a great majority of the 
House, who were murmuring about short 
crops and heavy taxes. It is impossible, 
at once to make the public feel, or under- 
stand the honor and advantage to a people 
of sucli academies of taste, science and 
the arts : But the gentleman should not 
despair, for perseverance will awaken and 
enlighten the people, and watchfulness, in 
some fortunate moment, will secure his ob- 
ject, and more than he has ventured to ask 
in behalf of the interest of learning. 
Much has already been done, when we 
consider how recently this country started 
into existence ; that the forest tree is now 
flourishing in middle age, under which 
the aboriginal warriors pointed their 
scalping knife, and sharpened theiy toma 
hawks. 

10* 



114 

Mr.L***N fromNorth-Hampton spoke 
for an hoar with great animation^ freedom 
and fluency^on a bill for enlarging the pow- 
ers of a religious corporation. The liberal- 
ists were jealous of the institution, whose 
creed they declared was a union of Cal- 
vinistic and Hopkinsian sentiments ; and 
assailed it without mercy as a tissue of 
absurdity^ a marriage between antient 
and modern bigotry, and superstition. The 
orator defended the creed as containing 
the faith once delivered to the saints and 
the pure doctrines of the reformation; and 
lavished the keenest satire on the liberal 
believers as wanting in liberality. OthcF 
gentlemen supported the bill on diflPer- 
ent grounds ; on the principles of general 
toleration, and contended that the world 
at the present day are too enlightened to 
fear the progress of narrow opinions, or 
monkish bigotry, whatever shape they 
might assume; but the majority were heret- 
ical and determined, and the bill was lost. 
At another time a question of military law 



115 

was before the House, and Mi*. D**^*; 
from Boston, made a speech of considera- 
able length. This gentleman seemed crit- 
ically acquainted with the laws of his own, 
and other countries ; and clearly spread 
the subject before the House, with happy 
illustrations, and many forcible remarks. 
He attracted, and convinced as he went 
on, and without difiBculty secured his ob- 
ject. The fault of this speaker, if fault it 
can be called, is a studious and careful 
selection of the choicest words, and an 
anxiety, and perhaps it may be called fas- 
tidiousness, in his whole phraseology; for 
the charms of purity, and neatness of style 
are not properly understood, or appreciat- 
ed in such ail assembly. No one would 
deny this body the possession of high tal- 
ents and acquirements ; but refinement of 
taste, and classical elegance, afford but 
little or no pleasure for these business- 
men, and they never make or enjoy a clas- 
sical allusion. I have listened to their de- 
bates when the profoundest national queg^ 



116 

tioMS were agitated, when the speakers 
made their utmost exertions to persuade, 
convince, and awaken ; when every pow* 
er of invention and force of language were 
put in requisition ; when the aged spoke 
with the solemnity of a farewell address, 
and the young harrangued, glowing with 
the ^^ lumen purpureum Juvenatis;'^ yet I 
never heard one sentence from Cicero, or 
one line from Horace escape their lips. 
They follow the English House of Com- 
mons in every thing, excep.t the use of 
classical quotations. Their rules and 
customs, and doubtful questions of order 
or right, are tried and adjudged by the 
parliamentary standard ;— yet they seem 
not to know that the master spirits of Brit- 
ish eloquence draw copiously, in every 
splendid debate, from the pages of the po- 
ets, orators and statesmen of imperial 
Rome, some of the most exalted principles 
and beautiful illustrations. 

I looked round their halls of legislation 
to find the statues or busts of the fathers 



117 

of their Country; but I looked in vaiu. 
Most of them are dead^ and the recollec- 
tion of their forms and features is almost 
faded from the memory of the living ; and 
the chisel and pencil would now be em- 
ployed without proper direction or much 
hope of success. In a common merce- 
nary repository of curiosities, among Stuf- 
fed alligators^and wax-figures, I found the 
likeness of Samuel Adams, the Prospero 
of the revolutionary spell, who at will, by 
the mighty magic of intellect and nerve, 
raised, increased, softened or hushed the 
storm, brought jarring interest to unite, 
restrained and controlled every political 
Caliban, and caused all by his incantations 
to be in love with liberty. This patriot's 
bust, with the genius of American freedom, 
should stand conspicuously in every public 
and private hall in this country. The 
sun of glory cannot be said to shine on 
his tomb — for his country has forgotten to 
erect one to cover his ashes, and they are 
mingled with common dust. 



lis 

The other Adams, the man La Fayette 
toasted on the day when Louis XVI sign- 
ed the constitution, which the Marquis 
called the '* Magna Charta of France/' 
is now in retirement, in great old age, fil- 
ling up the duties of a philosopher and 
christian, cherishing the last flame of life, 
and preparing for Heaven. He has pas- 
sed a long, busy and varied public life,, 
and has had a fair opportunity of exhibit- 
ing his talents and virtues in the first sta- 
tions in the gift of his country. He must 
be a happy man, in possessing his health 
and faculties in a good degree, though re- 
moved ten years beyond the ordinary 
bounds of human existence, and in seeing 
Ms first horn, the pride of his strength, 
justly occupying so large a space in the 
literary and political w orld ; and indeed 
the patriarch may without the inspiration 
which blessed the couch of Israel, see his 
beloved son filling more exalted stations 
than any he has as yet adorned. If vast 
literary and scientific acquirements, if great 



119 

political knowledge and diplomatic expe- 
rience, united with a general acquaintance 
with mankind, are qualifications for high 
offices in this republic, his claims are im- 
posing and paramount. 

Knowing that the subject would not be 
disagreeable to you, I send you a slight 
sketch of the military system here. Tlie 
peace establishment of the United States 
is an army of ten thousand men, stationed 
in mere handfuls along their immense fron- 
tiers, and extended seaboard, in the forts, 
and at the military depots. — This army 
is numerously officered, so that in the event 
of a sudden war, this skeleton may be rais- 
ed upon instantly to meet the emergency. 
The military defence of the Common- 
wealth of Massachusetts consists of a well- 
organized militia, of nearly one hundred 
thousand men, formed into thirteen divis- 
ions. The troops are inspected by com- 
panies in the spring, all on one day, and 
a return made of the arms and equipments. 
They meet at other times for company dis- 



ISO 

cipline, and once in the autumn of every 
year, are inspected and reviewed in regi- 
ments^ brigades and divisions, at the pleas- 
ure of the Major General of each divis- 
ion. In the militia are many of the first 
young men in the country, who serve sev- 
eral years, and spend much time and mon- 
ey in diffusing military knowledge and 
taste. The whole body of these troops is 
well equipt,but the light infantry, cavalry, 
and artillery, are in handsome and costly 
uniforms, and every part of their arms 
ready at short notice for service. 

I had the pleasure of seeing the Com- 
mander in Chief- — the Governor, review a 
brigade of these troops. This officer has 
the ease, the precision, and martial air of a 
soldier fond of his duty ; and both officers 
and men appeared to regard him with ad- 
miration and respect. He is not a Ma- 
gistrate w ho has thrown on a uniform from 
state-parade or necessity, and who is 
in durance until it is off, but wears it 
like one accustomed to command, and who 



1^1 

loves the duties of a soldier. He wai5 a 
revolutionary officer, and distinguished in 
the hattles which preceded the capture of 
Burgoyne ; Avhich event formed the most 
memorable era in the history of the con- 
test^ because this good fortune of the Amer- 
icans gave the struggle the form and char- 
acter of legitimate warfare. The staff of 
his Excellency were finely mounted, and 
r^ady and accurate in their duties, and 
are gentlemen who fill a very considerable 
space in society. 

I was shown the arsenals of the State 
by the Quarter Master- Greneral, who is a 
veteran officer, with the politeness of the 
old school; and he gave me the whole his- 
tory, in minute and accurate detail, of the 
state- defence, during the last war with 
England, in and about the capital of Mas- 
sachusetts, and it was more efficient than 
I had supposed. The munitions of war 
were in good order, and in considerable 
abundance, quite sufficient for a peace 
stock, except in the article of small arms^, 
11 



12^ 

but the deficiencyj the Greneral said, would 
soon be supplied by a provision of the 
general government. The buildings in 
which these articles are kept, are small, 
and altogether a disgrace to this great and 
powerful State. 

From the camp of Mars I passed to the 
groves of the Muses, or in other words, 
made a visit to Cambridge, three miles 
from Boston, the seat of the most respect- 
able, and antient seminary of learning in 
this country-Cambridge University, The 
college yard encloses several large build- 
ings of brick and stone, containing numer- 
ous chambers for officers and students, ca- 
pacious rooms for a library, a philosophi- 
cal apparatus, for recitations and lec- 
tures, and a hall for dining. The num- 
ber of students is about two hundred 
and fifty, divided into four classes. 
Very considerable acquirements are nec- 
essary to be admitted into the lowest class. 
Candidates for admission must have read 
attentively several of the Latin and Grreek 



123 

authors, studied an extensive treatise on 
elementary mathematics, and possess cou-^ 
siderable acquaintance with other branch- 
es of learning, before they can pass the 
threshold of this Institution. The pro- 
fessors and other instructors are numerous, 
carefully selected and sustain a high char- 
acter for dignity and learning : but there 
are no private tutors, those screens for 
idleness and irregularity. The scholars 
are all on an equality of rank, and fairly 
bring mind to contend with mind for the 
mastery ; and superiority of knowledge 
and intellect is the only distinction which 
is ever known on this classic ground ; and 
it frequently happens that the son of a 
yeoman wears the honors and v/rests the 
bays from the sons of opulence, and pride. 
Each class has its appropriate instructors, 
and meet twice a day for lectures or i^eci- 
tations, and as often have an opportunity 
of comparing habits of study, and measur- 
ing mental strength with each other. — 
Quarterly and annual exhibitions of the 



talents and learning of the students are 
pubiicly made. This fair and admirable 
method of education^ where all distinc- 
tions, but those of merit, like the dust of 
the balance are ivithout weight and with- 
out regard, is the seed of greatness, the 
nurse of genius, and the salt of a free gov- 
ernment. The president and professors 
of this Institution have none of the gowns- 
man's narrow views, nothing of the staid- 
n«ss of learning, or the solemn awkward- 
ness of recluse book-men; but are learned 
2:entlemen instructins: the sons of freemen. 
The president is about forty -five years of 
age, a gentleman of learning, talents, easy 
and polished manners, known at home as 
an accurate and tasteful scholar, and an 
excellent preacher; but abroad, more par- 
ticularly, as an author of an elegant mor- 
ceau of biography ; the life and charac- 
ter of Fisher Ames ; who was an orator of 
transcendent eloquence, and a patriot 
without fear or reproach ; who spent his 
life for his country's welfare, and died 



1«3 

with the spirit of political prophecy oa 
his lips. 

The Chief Justice of this Commonwealth 
has lately been appointed professor of law 
at this University. His acceptance of this 
office promises much usefulness to the com- 
munity, and additional celebrity to the In- 
stitution. He has already delivered one 
course of lectures with great applause. — 
From the specimens I have seen of his 
ability and style, from such correctness 
as he has exhibited in his opinions in the 
law reports, and the elegance of composi- 
tion he has shown in the sketches of char- 
acter, delivered on the lately deceased 
Judges, Parsons, Sewell, and Dewey ; it 
may safely be inferred that these lectures 
will have no small share of the solidity^ 
neatness and ease of Blackstone's Com- 
mentaries. The field before the professor 
is large, and full of rich and uuwrought 
materials, for the common law of New- 
England, which existed before the revo- 
lution, has never been gathered, or com 
11* 



1S6 

ineiited upon ; except so far as it has come 
into the cases which have been heard, and 
decided, in the Supreme Judical Court in 
this Comoionwealth. What has been donCf 
was well done ; yet much remains for sa- 
gacious labor, and discriminating taste. — 
The Chief Justice has many motives for 
great exertions in this professorship ; his 
own high reputation to support ; the raised 
expectations of the public to meet ; the 
law character of the State, the pride of 
the bar^ and the fame of the University to 
keep in view ; and to an affectionate heart, 
like his own, a still stronger and more 
sustaining motive, a large and fine family 
to share his rewards, and rejoice in his 
honors. 



i^r 



Agriculture, the great basis of popular 
tion, is not at present, in MassachusettSj 
at so high a state of perfection as a stran- 
ger would expect from the wealth and in- 
dustry he every where discovers in this 
Commonwealth. I saw in the public 
prints, that a cattle show was to be held 
at Brighton, in the vicinity of Boston, and 
curiosity made me an early visitor at the 
exhibition. It had excited considerable 
interest, and was well attended. The 
animals shown were not numerous, some 
of them were very good, but others were 
not of the first quality* The number of 
the animals would have been greater, and 
the quality, particularly, of the fat oxen, 
would have been much better if farmers 
had not been prevented from exhibiting 
their cattle for fear the most extraordina- 
ry animals would have been searched 
out, and entered for tlie show. The 



whole proceedings of the Trustees of the 
Massachusetts Agricultural Society on 
this occasion, were precise, cautious and 
liberal, with as many checks, guards, and 
indulgencies, as were practicable. The 
report on the rules and orders of the show, 
as presented to the public on that day by 
Mr. Lowell, contained a historical sketch 
of the proceedings of the Society, the mo- 
tives which led to its establishment, and 
the difficulties it has had to encounter, 
principally arising from the apathy of the 
agricultural interest. 

The report proceeded to a discussion 
of some of the prime objects of the institu- 
tion, and unfolded them in a succinct, 
sound and lucid manner, calculated to 
awaken the public from indifference to 
these subjects, and to destroy the prejudi- 
ces which have so long and so inveter- 
ately been fixed in this country. I have 
had the pleasure of hearing this gentlemaur 
several times, on various subjects, and evcB 
his impromtu productions wear a charac- 



ier and polish, which would seem to imply 
a most patient and laborious finishing. 
The high compliment once paid another, 
may justly be said of him and even extend- 
ed— 

*' Nullum quod tetigit i>05i ornavit," 

et tetigit orania^ — 

It is surprising that the end and design 
of this Institution should be so little un- 
derstood. People talk of the amount of 
the premiums offered and given by this 
Society. True, in this case they are 
something handsome in a pecuniary point 
of view, but the real value of all these 
things is in the honor. It would have 
been amusing to have heard the victor 
crowned with the wreath of honor, en- 
quiring what sum the artist had for his 
trifling pains in forming it. — The Cattle 
Show is nothing, — -the premiums nothing, 
only as a symptom of awakened attention, 
and an earnest of future improvement. In 
every business men must be stimulated to 



ISO 

competition anil rivalry, to produce any 
thing useful and important. 

The philosophy of agriculture was the 
first partially learned, and will be the last 
fully understood. The growth and culti- 
vation of indigenous plants and animals, 
required but little information, for nature 
distinctly marked out her own proper 
course for what she had spontaneously 
brought forth. But to compare, and prop- 
erly to understand the climates and soils 
of different degrees of latitude, and dis- 
tant countries, that agriculturalists may 
successfully introduce the vegetables and 
animals of every region, for food, service, 
or ornament, Avhich can add plenty, com- 
fort, wealth or pleasure to their own coun- 
try, require^ a unity of enlightened intel- 
lect and unceasing labor. This Institu- 
tion was established for such a purpose. — 
Humanity and patriotism are its parents ; 
liberality, enterprise and research its 
nurses ; and perseverance will cherish its 
growth, and give it a stable reputation and 



131 

permanent success ; for ilirift always fol- 
lows intelligent and honest labor to wipe 
the sweat from his brow, to cheer his 
countenance, and enliven him with the 
prospect of future good. 

Until the present age, agricultural 
economy was founded on traditionary 
statements and individual observation ; 
from which grew numerous and contradic- 
tory theories, frequently overthrown by 
some change in soil or season ; and on 
which, if successful, no farmer dared ful- 
ly to rest, or decidedly to recommend. 
Among the proud and wonderful improve- 
ments of our time, the advancement of 
husbandry stands conspicuous. Philos- 
ophers who have long been abstracted from 
the things around them by the science of 
metaphysics and numbers, have sudden- 
ly turned from speculation to utility, and 
are now assiduously investigating the 
properties of the earth, the prolific mother 
of all things ; and these mighty minds, 
like the fabled soils of earth, seemed to 



133 

liave found new vigor the moment they 
touched the ground. Philosophy has now 
found her noblest subject, to increase the 
means of living, and of course to enhance 
the value of life. 

A few years since the cultivation of the 
soil was considered as a homely, and 
rough employment, requiring only corpo- 
real strength without calculation or inge- 
nuity, but this mistake is passing, or has 
passed away. — The art or science of ag- 
riculture now presses into its service ev- 
ery species of knowledge, of times, sea- 
sons, soils, climates, properties, composi- 
tions, and decompositions, matter, action, 
growth, and dissolution, from the " rank 
weed that rots on Lethe's wharf," the 
■'^ Omnia e conchis" of the chemist, to the 
course of every star in the Heavens. 
The antients held husbandry in much 
higher estimation than the generations 
who have more immediately preceded us. 
They had much taste, and some knowl- 
edge but their philosophy was so rapt up 



ill allegory^ and sniTOunded by the charms 
of fancy, that all the phenomena of nature 
were carried up to supernatural agency. 
They had but little experiment, and no 
analysis, they looked on the surface of 
things, and drew on their imagination. 
Yet the plough was venerated in the land 
of the muses, and the chastest of the Ro- 
man poets sang the beneficence of the 
Gods to the husbandman. Apollo and 
Pan blessed the shepherd, and taught him 
the mysteries of his employment. Ceres 
scattered her golden grain, ^' and Bacchus 
came down with the vine.^^ The praises 
of the Gods, heroes, patrons and husban- 
dry were mingled together, and in the 
same strain, were celebrated the beauty of 
a heifer and the bounty of Maecenas, the 
method of selecting a war horse and the 
deification of Augustus. — The present is 
an age of practical wisdom, and all the vi- 
sions of poetry are dissolved by experi- 
mental philosophy. The golden rule now 
established is — the most food from the 
13 



134 

fewest acresj and the least possible labor. 
The beautiful and tasteful must be control- 
led by the useful. The hive is now kept 
for the honey and not for the sagacity of 
the bee ; the plant is now cultivated for 
its substance and succulency and not for 
the fragrance of the flower ; the forest is 
trimmed to make better the quality and 
increase the quantity of timber^and not for 
regular shades or imposing scenery. All 
things which regard husbandry and the 
arts have changed for the better. Feeble 
and fickle patrons who consulted their 
own glory more than the general good 
are superceded by powerful corporations 
who unite the wealthy talent and interest 
of the surrounding country^ who are more 
able to surmount difficulties, more sted- 
fast in purpose, and more just in the dis- 
tribution of rewards. This society, as the 
report states, has existed a number of 
years, but has now made its first public 
exhibition. If it continues with the same 
zeal, talent, information and liberality 



1B5 

which has hitherto been displayed, its 
advantages will be certain, increasing 
and incalculable ; its example contagious, 
and diffusive. If it is continued with the 
same spirit for a few years, county socie- 
ties will start up to emulate its exertions ; 
every farming neigbourhood will catch its 
spirit and every individual farmer thank 
Heaven for the good it has done. 

If the man, " who could make two 
ears of corn, or two blades of grass, to 
grow upon a spot of ground where only 
one grew before, would deserve better of 
mankind, and do more essential service to 
his country, than the whole race of politi- 
cians put together," how great must be the 
value of these philanthropists, and how 
much do they deserve of their country, 
who greatly multiply the ears of corn and 
blades of grass, and teach men to do the 
same, and then reward them for their 
knowledge and success. 

This awakened attention to agricultural 
pursuits in its various branches with pru- 



S36 

dent and well founded manufacturing es- 
tablishmentsj will fix more certainty to 
capital and in the event of a war prevent 
that distress attendant on sudden cheeks 
to commercial business, increase the pop- 
ulation and add efficiency to the state as a 
member of the union. 



The probable duration of the republican 
forms of government in this country is a 
subject often discussed by the philosophers 
and statesmen in Europe ; and as is com- 
mon in political questions there is a great 
diversity of opinion. Those who think 
these civil and political forms of a free 
people will soon crumble into the dust, 
draw their arguments from the downfall 
of others, and the decay and termination 
of the small republics of modern Italy ; 
but between them and the American re- 



137 

public there is uo parallel ^ for the Amer- 
ican republic is erectedj and supported on 
different principles from former free gov- 
ernments. In the first, ther seeds of their 
own dissolution were inherent and palpa- 
ble ; a scanty population ; a confined ter- 
ritory ; a distinction of rank ; a proud and 
profligate nobility ; a factious, ignorant, 
and giddy populace ; without much stabil- 
ity in the middle classes of society : These 
were the canker-worm of their immortal- 
ity, the spell which hung upon their 
strength ; the spot deep, and indelible up- 
on their loveliness ; — the presages of their 
political and civil agonies, and at length 
the seal of their departed liberty, and 
happiness. An oppressive aristocracy 
can never be a part of a free government. 
These republics were surrounded by war- 
like and barbarian neighbors, ignorant of 
even the name of liberty ; but furious for 
conquest and plunder. For a while, fear 
and interest held them together ; — but the 
eement was not natural, and permanent, 
IS* 



13S 

for the reciprocity of interest was not 
equal. — The first grades of society had 
too much, the lower too little at risk ; hut 
to the honor of men in humble ranks of 
life, they seldom, or never, desert their 
superiors, when they discover talents, 
magnanimity, and bravery to lead them to 
glory. Most countries have fallen by the 
pusillanimity, and avarice of the upper 
classes ; who, when in danger of invasion, 
have hesitated, negociated, and cowered, 
hoping to save a part of their wealth, and 
consequence, by treaty and management ; 
and the end has invariably been the dis- 
persion of their followers, and the ruin 
of themselves. 

The American republic is different, in 
every point of view ; possessing a territory 
of immense extent, embracing every vari- 
ety of soil and climate, embosoming lakes 
like seas in magnitude 5 extended plains, 
and lofty mountains, producing every 
shrub, tree and fruit, from those which re- 
quire the warmth of the equator to those 



139 

which flourish on the borders of perpetual 
congelation ; containing rivers which flow 
a thousand leagues to the sea, of such 
breadth and depth, that augmented by an 
hundred Tybers, they would not rise to 
move a rush upon their banks. This 
government, at present, is composed of 
near twenty independent States, each at- 
tentive to its own internal polity and pros- 
perity ; making its own laws, for the pres- 
ervation of their property and tranquility, 
building up institutions of literature, and 
science, as disposition or ability admits. 
In all these there can be no hereditary 
rank ; each man is independent and free ; 
lord of the soil on which he lives, connect- 
ed with the welfare of his country ; hav- 
ing something to lose, and more to hope 
for in his posterity ; and, however humble, 
never degraded by the horrid thought that 
he is propagating a race of vassals. — ■ 
These States, bound together by a federal 
compact for national purposes : a compact 
solid and lastiui^, not connected as has 



been represented, by a slio-ht pack thread 
which every calamity, or disaffection would 
burst asunder. In fine, th- territory of 
this country is so vast, its education so 
generally diffused ; distinctions of rank so 
systematically guarded against"; and so 
many characters are of nearly equal pop- 
ularity, and wealth ; that no one can ever 
usurp the government, or destroy the lib- 
erties of the people. They are in but lit- 
tle danger from internal commotions, and 
less from invasions ; for if every town on 
the sea-board was in possession of an en- 
emy,it would not dismay, or endanger this 
great country. I am not contending for 
the perfection of this system ; that is not 
-the lot of man. I am not so much of an en- 
thusiast as to suppose that any men, who 
govern a nation, are always pure and just. 
No, they are here, as well as in other free 
countries, tlivided into parties, and stru"-- 
gle for place, and power ; and it may hap- 
pen in this, as in other nations, that the 
great and good may be jostled out of place, 



141 

and power ; and the weaker and meaner 
iake the labors and lioaors of o lice ; yet 
1 mean to be understood that there is, and 
always will be. a redeeming spirit among 
so many enlightened freemen, which will 
preserve their liberties through every diffi- 
culty ; and that the progress of civilization 
will continue, and that time will roll on to 
develope the high destinies of this people. 



I am now about to depart from Massa- 
chusetts to meet my friends who have taken 
up their residence at the south, and I assure 
you I shall leave this northern region with 
regret, for in every situation I love to wor- 
ship the mountain spirit of liberty, and ex- 
amine the free and bold character of her 
votaries whether on the, hills of Dclicarlia 



14S 

or along the banks of the Merrimack. But 
one word more on Massachusetts before I 
bid her farewell ; for I have contemplated 
her character, not with blindness, but witli 
enthusiasm ; and can mark her excellen- 
cies without exaggeration. She is power- 
ful in the number, intelligence, competen- 
cy and bravery of her yeomanry, and in 
her industrious and ingenius artisans ; 
rich in her enterprising, wealthy, and hon- 
orable merchants, and great in her intellec- 
tual and moral worth, the only sure foun- 
dation of every superstructure of freedom. 
Some things in her character I could 
wish were altered, and time 1 have no doubt 
willchangc or ameliorate them. To en- 
sure her prosperity, she must act on a less 
rigid and more magnanimous policy. I 
speak now of her capitalists, and cherish 
her adventurous and industrious young 
men, and make some exertions to keep at 
home her talents and enterprize, and not 
permit them to emigrate to places at a dis- 
tance where confidence & patronage await 



143 

them. But I hasten to tell my friends that 
the New-England character is not rightly 
understood by us. With many preju- 
dices and some faults she abounds in ex- 
cellencies of head and heart. You may 
liear from me in the south when I have an 
opportunity of observing what effect mild- 
der suns, and different habits, have on the 
mind of man under the same govern- 
ment. 



H 



O O 



78 









\. 




























o ^ 



4 O. 




.0 






u>«p- 



L-^^j' V'-'^v %>""^^'y' 



.V 



•*b 














^0^ 










I 



r- 

















c"^" ,' 






.y 






